Crossing into Thailand

At the border we easily leave Malaysia, with their efficient and clear immigration, and painfully and slowly enter Thailand with their ‘could be better’ immigration. Abby and I both get flustered by the jostling of the queues. It even rains on us. Eventually though we get out visas and head into Thailand on foot.

The guide book claims the railway station is 50m from the border, but that turned out to be 1km, by which time our backpacks were hurting, our spirits low and we desperately needed a money changer as we had no Thai Baht.

All of a sudden we see the railway station, and a money changer outside. Once I changed the Malaysian Ringget into Thai Baht, we enter the railway station and book out train tickers to Hat Yai. We by some snacks and wait for the train. The fresh colours of the railway station quickly lifts out spirits.

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Rough boat ride back to mainland Malaysia

We get up early to find the monsoon has blown out, but big waves remain from yesterdays winds. We make our way across the island just as the sun is rising. I like walking through the jungle this early, but I have to admit I kept my eyes open for fresh spider webs across the pathways. The spiders here are big and nasty.

There are a few people waiting at the jetty, and many more arrive whilst we wait. No one seems to know whether the boats are coming today, but we assume they will. A little after 8am I see a boat in the distance getting closer. It’s a fast boat, but there is only 1 and there are about 50 people waiting by now. Eventually, after a lot of talking amongst the boatmen, and many mobile phone calls we get aboard the second boat to arrive and we head off back towards the mainland. About halfway into the crossing the seas get rough. As the mainland becomes closer the waves get big. Bigger than the boat in fact, but the driver skilfully ‘surfs’ the waves, making use of the 400hp engines to stay within the waves and safely deliver us to the jetty. There were a couple of moments when the boat felt like it was tipping sideways, but the driver never looked concerned. He even gave me a thumbs up at one point.

Back at the jetty Abby and I have banana pancakes for breakfast. I arrange a Taxi to the Thai border.

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Monsoon dampens the day on Pulau Perenthian Kecil, Malaysia

We wake to find strong winds and heavy rain bashing the coast. We had planned to take the noon boat back to the mainland. We ask a few locals, including crazy Carlos, who all seem to think the boat will come. We decide that the sea is so rough that we wouldn’t want to take the boat anyway, and stay for another day.

Some of the lads from the place we are staying take a surfboard out and ride some of the waves. We join them by taking a swim. The waves are rough and the currents are very strong.

It’s a shame there is only power on the island between 7pm and 7am, as we have some movies and TV programs to watch on the laptop, and I’d like to get a little work done. Oh well, we cant have everything. We keep ourselves busy, indoors mostly, but occasionally dodging the rain. We even have a game of twister.

Hopefully the boat will come tomorrow and take us back to the mainland. We’re hoping to catch the bus to Thailand.

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Moonlight Chalets, Pulau Perhentian Kecil, Malaysia

After a night at Matahari Chalets, with no water, a loud generator and temperatures ranging from sweltering to freezing we decide to check out a few other places to stay. We walk right down to the northern end of Long Beach and see some lovely bungalows by the jetty. We talk to the staff and Carlos shows us to some rooms. They are lovely rooms, but out of our normal price range (RM100). We decide to take the room, which Carlos lets us have for RM90. The room has a sea view, AC, nice furniture, a king size bed, a fridge and a lovely balcony. We later both consider the cost, but agree that it’s good to have a little luxury once in a while.

We check in and relax for the day.

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Onto the Pulau Perhentian islands, Malaysia

We catch the mini-bus for a day of travel to Kuala Besut. After form filling (government requirements) We jump on the ‘fast boat’ to the small island (Kecil). Once we get past the harbour area the boat driver opens the twin 200BPH engines and smiles (some of fear) come across everyone’s faces as we race at breakneck speed towards the islands. The journey takes just 30 minutes.

We land at Coral Bay due to the waves being high at Long Beach on the other side of the islands. We trek across the islands, through the jungle path, and arrive at the beautiful beach. We check a few places to stay, which are either full or a bit drab and settle on a bungalow at Matahari Chalets. We have no water, and later find we are right by the generator that runs all night. But ear-plugs get us a good nights sleep.

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Exploring the Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Today is a tribute day to my late Grandmother Christine Williams who passed away this week.

We rent a motorbike and head north towards the tea plantations. We stop at Bala’s Holiday Chalet for a cream tea which is excellent. We continue north passing through wonderful rolling hills of tea and other crops. After going too far we turn back and find the turning for the Sungai Palas Boh Tea Plantation.

At the tea plantation we have a quick look around and enjoy an ice cream and a home grown tea. The views are stunning.

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Kuala Lumpur to Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

After staying with my friend Cameron in Kuala Lumpur for 10 days we get back on the road. We get the bus from KL to Tanah Rata, in the Cameron Highlands. The last section of the journey becomes more scenic and dangerous as the bus hugs the mountain edge roads at break neck speed.

Once in Tanah Rata we check into the Hillview Inn, which is more expensive that our normal budget, but immaculate, and we after a little more luxury today.

We book a motorbike for tomorrow afternoon and eat at a recommended Indian restaurant.

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Last day in Pangandaran, Java, Indonesia

We rent bicycles in the morning and ride out to the bus station to find out about buses to Jakarta. There doesn’t seem to be an official office anywhere but I chat to a helpful guy who tells me the times and prices that he thinks, which is pretty much what I had been told by someone else. We ride back towards town and stop at the travel agents. I give them my old laptop, which they are delighted about. We buy our tickets for tomorrow mornings bus to Jakarta.

We ride down the eastern side of the peninsula and pass through some wonderful traditional backstreets, eventually coming out on the shore where we see more evidence of the tsunami. There is a lot of work going on to build strong see defences. We stop outside a restaurant, buy fruit from a seller and eat it overlooking the sea. After a dip in the very strong waves back at the western side of the beach, we return the bikes and take a walk. I take some photos of some of the sites that lie empty since the tsunami. Abby and I both think a lot about the people here and how their lives have been affected by this tragic event. I hope the tourists return to this area, and I hope the people here continue to rebuild their homes and business with the same spirit that we have seen.

We are sad to leave Pangandaran. Tomorrow we head to Jakarta for a single day, before flying to Malaysia.

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Lazy day in Pangandaran, Java, Indonesia

After our first lazy morning in a long time we have a late breakfast and take a walk to the beach. The waves are big. There are many more people around today and many of them seem to be Indonesian visitors, although there almost no women at the beach.

The rains soon arrive and we retreat to the guesthouse, where we watch the rains fall all afternoon, whilst we catch up on overdue jobs.

I took time to look for more signs of Tsunami damage today. There are many buildings with blown out windows and damaged walls and roofs. It makes me very sad to think of the damage that mighty wave made to peoples lives. This are is slowly recovering and I hope the tourists return so that the people can rebuild their business as well as their lives. I also hope that we do not see such a deadly event again.

The hotel complex once filled this site. The tsunami damaged buildings have been removed. Stacks of bricks remain at the far end

However, I suspect we will. This area, and other areas of the world are very active seismically, and great changes above and below the earth are bound to happen.

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Yogyakarta to Pangandaran, Java, Indonesia

Our mini-bus picks up at 20:00 promptly and we jump in. Our travel agent is there to see us off, showing the nothing but professional service we have received from him. We are delighted to find out we are the only two passengers on our 8 hour drive to Pangandaran, which means we have the whole bus to ourselves. Our last few bus rides have been a little cramped and uncomfortable and we haven’t gotten much sleep, so this is a treat. We are expecting a few breakdowns on the way, but this is to be expected.

We get away quickly and fall asleep in the luxurious rows. After a few hours we stop for a break and soon get back on the road.

We have expected to get to Pangandaran at around 4 or 5 am, but we arrive at 2:30 am, without a single breakdown. Getting anywhere early is normally good news, but when you’re in a sleepy town and nothing is open it’s a bit of a problem. The bus drivers say we can sleep in the bus, which is great. They jump in another bus to sleep. The lady from the PT Lotus Wisata travel agent, where we have been dropped off, very kindly invites us in for tea and biscuits. We are keen to find a hotel to sleep, as we have been travelling by night bus and getting early starts for about a week now. She calls around but no one is up.
We chat with her for a while. She tells of how she once had a nice house, but it was lost to the tsunami and she now has just her travel agent buildings, which she shares with he son and daughter, both of which are there with us. Her son is sleeping on a mattress in the office, but she wakes him and sends him to the backroom, but I’m not sure why. She also tells of how the visitor numbers have fallen since the tsunami. I feel very sorry for her, but I’m glad she still has her children. She mentions the financial problems or rebuilding her business, and of buying a computer, which her son helped with as he has a keen interest in them. I have just bought a new laptop and I intended to give away my old one, which is off little value in the UK, but I think is worth something to the lad here. Once I have got all of my files from it I will bring it into the travel agent for the kid.

We get back in the bus and sleep well until 4:30 am when the driver and the lady’s daughter drive us to the Villa Angela, which they had recommended and called for us. When we get there the owner shows us to a lovely downstairs room where we can sleep until 9, when other guests will check out of their room and we can check in. We end up sleeping until midday!

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