Phnom Pehn to Siem Reap by bus, Cambodia

Up early for breakfast and the bus from Phnom Pehn to Siem Reap. The shuttle takes us to the bus depot, were we jump on to the main bus. The bus station is opposite the Central Market and we enjoy watching the hustle and bustle of Phnom Pehn.

Soon enough the bus departs and we are on the road. The scenery is similar to what we have seen before. There is a lot of rain on the journey and we see some bad flooding. Thankfully though we don’t breakdown, despite the fact that the bus seems likely to overheat at any moment, as the driver hoses down the radiator as soon as we stop.

After a few stops we make it to Siem Reap. There is no suggestion of Angkor’s sights as we travel through the town. The bus yard is saturated with water when we arrive. But, the crew do a sterling job and pass everyone their bag without any getting muddy or wet. We pre-arranged a guesthouse, and a very friendly guy has arrived to meet us. We jump in the tuk-tuk and make the ride across town.

The guesthouse is nice and run by a very friendly family.

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Market shopping and the National Museum, Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

We head over to the Central Market again, to try and get some more treasures to take home. We only have 20 days of the trip left, and only a few more places to stop, so we are collecting as many nice things as possible now. When we came to the market before we didn’t find much to buy, but this time we were much more successful. I manage to find 3 t-shirts and a very bright shirt, and Abs finds several bags. We’re really enjoying the battering that comes with market shopping. Although we do have a bitter experience when buying drinks, when not only do they overcharge us, but they try to short change us as well.

We have found the Cambodian people to be the friendliest, most helpful and the most honest of all the people we have met on this trip. A contrast from the aggressive people of Vietnam. It’s amazing how the Cambodian people, who have suffered so much in recent times, are the most forward thinking and considerate. I think Cambodia is set for great things in the future, maybe more so than her neighbours.

In our guesthouse there is a sign advertising software developer jobs, and English teaching jobs. Something that appeals to us both, if only we had more time.

After the market be get a tuk-tuk to the National Museum. It’s a wonderful building filled with wonderful artefacts from all over Cambodia. Many from the Angkor region, which is a shame, but at least they are safe in the Museum now, rather than being sold into the wrong hands.

We don’t have time to visit the Silver Pagoda or Palace, so we will have to leave them for next time.

In the evening we venture away from the guesthouse and have a great dinner by the river. There are many people relaxing for the evening by the river, and it’s fun to watch. We get approached by some funny characters whilst we are eating.

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The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and the Russian Market, Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

We negotiate a price with a tuk-tuk driver and head out towards the Killing Fields. It’s a 30 minute drive across Phnom Penh, through some interesting suburbs and sights. At the Killing Fields, even from the car park, we can see the many skulls, stacked inside the beautiful white pagoda.

We quickly fall into the mood required for a visit to such a site. The site is minimal, with just a few signs indicated some of the graves, and where buildings once stood. Nothing remains of the buildings or much else at the site. I like this, as I have come to pay my respects, and I don’t need any visual indications of what the people here suffered. A few trees are labelled with their purpose during the bloody years here at Choeung Ek, reminding me of how primitive things. At the far end of the sight we get hassled by some kids, just looking for money, but I ignore them, moving them on with my hand gesture. Abby takes the time to talk to them, but I want to think and take in where I am.

It’s a fairly small site, and to be honest I was expecting there to be more here, maybe after there was so much to take in at S-21 yesterday. But, it has been interesting and much has been left to the imagination, which I think is important at the sight like this.

We spend a few minutes at the pagoda where I watch a local man by some incense sticks and make his prayers. It’s impossible to think of the emotions the Cambodian people feel. They are so strong and brave.

We get back in the tuk-tuk and head over to the Russian Market.

It’s a bit more cramped and claustrophobic than the other market yesterday, but it’s fun and we find several things to buy, for ourselves and for other people back home. I have more of my ongoing frustration at buying t-shirts. I find 2 that I really like, but they are the wrong sizes.

We head back to the guesthouse and spend the rest of the day relaxing. We have just 22 days of our trip left (of our 5 month trip, and 7 months for me). We are both looking forward to going home, but we are sad to leave these fascinating and fun countries. We are already planning future trips 🙂

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Tuol Sleng (S-21) museum and Psar Thmel (Central Market), Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

After breakfast we take a long walk south across the city to Tuol Sleng, better known as S-21, the school that was used to perform unthinkable horrors during the Khmer Rouges rein of terror in Cambodia. Around the museum the streets are home to regular Cambodian people going about their day. As we approach, the building line changes and the space the school was occupied for more than 30 years is obvious.

In the barbed wire fence the entrance is visible; we take a deep breath and go in.

The first room in the first building holds the images I have seen many times in the film Baraka and from other photographs; checked tiles on the floor, a single window, and a rusty metal bed.

We move through the building, through the similar rooms. In the second building we find the endless walls of photographs of the people who lost their lives in this gruesome museum.

There is a respectful display of photographs by an artist who has tried to bring back the lives of the people features in the photographs. He has used only the reflections of the glass covering the photographs to create the illusion that the people are in the room. It’s clever, impressive and respectful. In the third building we find the horrible cells, cheaply and badly made to house people during their time in the prison. Upstairs we find wooden cells that are creepy and scary to walk around. The last building holds some of the items of torture and other artifacts found on the site. The museum is well presented and leaves much to the imagination rather than explaining too much, which is good, as too much information when you are inside the former prison would be too much.

We leave saddened and enlightened, having learnt and having paid our respects. We stop at the cafe across the road to unwind a little.

After lunch we take a walk north through the city. Cambodia is a real mixture of new, old, rich and poor. The people are so friendly and smiley though, a wonderful change after Vietnam where people are keen to take your money without offering much.

The area around Central Market is a mixture of workplaces and street shops. We find the market and take a look around. It’s big and housed in a wonderful domed building. I quickly find myself almost unable to resist buying a watch I didn’t really want. Moving on we find lots of good things to buy for ourselves and for people at home. The people in the market and friendly, helpful and realistic with their prices; another nice reality check.

After the market we head over to the shopping center, get some food and continue our shopping mood. We don’t find too much, but a visit to the supermarket, and watching the roller disco is fun.

Eventually we leave and take a long walk back to the hotel, through what seems like the karaoke area (read brothel zone).

It’s been a day of ups and downs. I’ve wanted to visit S-21 for many years, and today I learnt some things about other people and myself, and paid my respects to those who suffered here in the past.

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Tuol Sleng (S-21) museum and Psar Thmel (Central Market), Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

After breakfast we take a long walk south across the city to Tuol Sleng, better known as S-21, the school that was used to perform unthinkable horrors during the Khmer Rouges rein of terror in Cambodia. Around the museum the streets are home to regular Cambodian people going about their day. As we approach, the building line changes and the space the school was occupied for more than 30 years is obvious.

In the barbed wire fence the entrance is visible; we take a deep breath and go in.

The first room in the first building holds the images I have seen many times in the film Baraka and from other photographs; checked tiles on the floor, a single window, and a rusty metal bed.

We move through the building, through the similar rooms. In the second building we find the endless walls of photographs of the people who lost their lives in this gruesome museum.

There is a respectful display of photographs by an artist who has tried to bring back the lives of the people features in the photographs. He has used only the reflections of the glass covering the photographs to create the illusion that the people are in the room. It’s clever, impressive and respectful. In the third building we find the horrible cells, cheaply and badly made to house people during their time in the prison. Upstairs we find wooden cells that are creepy and scary to walk around. The last building holds some of the items of torture and other artifacts found on the site. The museum is well presented and leaves much to the imagination rather than explaining too much, which is good, as too much information when you are inside the former prison would be too much.

We leave saddened and enlightened, having learnt and having paid our respects. We stop at the cafe across the road to unwind a little.

After lunch we take a walk north through the city. Cambodia is a real mixture of new, old, rich and poor. The people are so friendly and smiley though, a wonderful change after Vietnam where people are keen to take your money without offering much.

The area around Central Market is a mixture of workplaces and street shops. We find the market and take a look around. It’s big and housed in a wonderful domed building. I quickly find myself almost unable to resist buying a watch I didn’t really want. Moving on we find lots of good things to buy for ourselves and for people at home. The people in the market and friendly, helpful and realistic with their prices; another nice reality check.

After the market we head over to the shopping center, get some food and continue our shopping mood. We don’t find too much, but a visit to the supermarket, and watching the roller disco is fun.

Eventually we leave and take a long walk back to the hotel, through what seems like the karaoke area (read brothel zone).

It’s been a day of ups and downs. I’ve wanted to visit S-21 for many years, and today I learnt some things about other people and myself, and paid my respects to those who suffered here in the past.

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Saigon, Vietnam to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

We checkout and catch the 9am bus from Saigon to Phnom Penh. It’s a pretty good bus, but strangely we are two of only four non-Asian Passengers on the full bus. But that’s good, we love watching the local people go about their days and exchanging laughs with them. We get under way and get to the border fairly quickly. There is a bit of confusion at the border crossing but we get to the right desk (as we have e-visas), but we have to leave our passports there whilst we have lunch. Not the best situation, but we get them back afterwords without any problem. It’s a shame Asian travel staff don’t give more information during stages like this, as we and a Japanese guy who also had an e-visa weren’t entirely sure what was going on.

After a nice lunch we get back on the bus and head into Cambodia. The landscape changes also immediately with the character of Cambodia coming through. We pass through many traditional villages and Cambodia’s position as a developing company is obvious. We unexpectedly stop at a ferry terminal. A quick check of the map shows that we are at the Mekong River. It’s a massive span and there is no bridge. A few people come up to the bus to sell their items, including fried bugs.

So the bus practically slides down the mud bank to the ferry. Once across the river the bus makes it up the muddy bank and we get back on the road.

As we get close to Phnom Penh we notice the roads are flooded with the water just sitting on the roads. We’ve seen a lot of heavy rain recently and we hope it gets better when we get to Angkor Wat in a few days.

Once inside the city the rains fall even more heavily. We get to the stopping point and shelter from the rain in the bus companies cafe. Abs checks a room in the bus companies guesthouse but it’s not very good. We decide to get a tuk-tuk to a recommended guesthouse. The pushy tuk-tuk driver actually turns out to be a nice guy and we take a look at the guesthouse we recommends. We try to avoid guesthouses listed in guidebooks as we try to spread our money around.

The guesthouse is good, and the staff are really friendly. There are a lot of people staying at the Okay Guesthouse and we chat to a few. It’s nice to be out of the rain. Cambodian people are proving to be helpful and honest so far, which we didn’t expect.

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Cu Chi tunnels and the Reunification Palace, Saigon, Vietnam

Up early for a bus to the Cu Chi tunnels outside of Saigon. The tunnels are where the Viet Cong hid during the American-Vietnam war. On route the bus stops at a workshop where handicapped people of the area make handicrafts for tourists.

Onto the tunnels where we notice we have been charged 80,000Dong for entry, and yet it seems that the price is 65,000Dong. I question it, but the guide is useless, and no-one else seems to care. Oh well…..

Inside the center we watch a video in which the narrator takes immense glory in glamorizing how many Americans where slaughtered during the war. We notice there are a few Americans in the audience. We get shown around several features which are interesting. Mainly these are tiny access holes for the tunnels systems and the tunnels themselves.

We also stop at a tank. Some people pay for ridiculously overpriced bullets (4 bullets for $12) and fire them on the driving range. It is incredibly loud and we watch, but I hate guns and keep my money in my pocket. The tour is a bit like following sheep, something we don’t like and we are a bit tired of it, but we do get the chance to descend into the tunnels and walk along a section. I’m a bit unsure at first as I’m likely to get stuck, but once in I shuffle along and it turns out to be a good experience.

The tour ends and we are herded back onto the bus and back to Saigon.

We grab some lunch and I’m not feeling so good, but some sugary drinks sorts me out and we head to the Reunification Palace. We’re a bit disappointed when we get there as the building looks like a modern government headquarters, and not the historic building left as it was in 1975 when the tanks from Hanoi arrived. We decide to take a look inside anyway and pay our $1 entry fee. The building is used as offices for several organizations, but we soon find that upstairs are rooms used during the war that are left as they were. We walk around and find lots of other interesting rooms.

But the best part comes when we descend into the basement. The dark and stuffy rooms are full of radio equipment, maps, typewriters, offices and even a jeep and car. The basement has been the highlight of this visit, despite the whole thing looking a bit uninteresting at first.

After the palace we head towards the market to try and get some souvenirs and other bits. We can’t find much that we haven’t already seen and just get a few essentials.

We stop at a big electronics store to try and buy a new camera for me. They don’t have the model I am after (Canon Powershot G9). We try a few more stores, but the camera doesn’t come with a warranty, which is the problem I’m had at other places in Vietnam.

We head back to the hotel stopping for dinner along the way.

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Mui Ne to Saigon, Vietnam

We say goodbye to our very nice room and have a late and long breakfast waiting for our 13:30 bus to Saigon.

On the bus we settle into the back seat and get some sleep. The heavens open on the trip and we see the heaviest rain for some time. This delays us a bit and we arrive in Saigon an hour late, but the bus drops us right in to Pham Ngu Lao, the traveler region, which is very handy indeed. I chat to an Australian lady briefly before getting off the bus, who lives here teaching English, and she gives some good tips for the region.

Off the bus we grab out things, and notice the manager from our guesthouse in Mui Ne has traveled on the bus with us, strange. We take a walk, go a few blocks and find a nice hotel that will do nicely. We settle into our room with a bit of TV. We feel like take away, and I find a Pizza place and grab a handful of drinks to take back to the room.

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The Fairy Spring and waterfall, Mui Ne, Vietnam

We jump on the motorbike and head down to the beach we saw yesterday. The tide is really high and there is barely any beach left. Mui Ne is a nice little town, but it’s been disappointing that we can’t find any nice places to swim. The winds are strong and this seems to make the beaches smaller.

Disappointed we head east again and try to find the Fairy Spring. After a couple of wrong turns I ask a travel agent and he points just around the corner. Right by the lane to the spring is a ‘bike keeper’, run by a few enterprising lads. We leave the bike there, and 2 of the lads take us down to the stream.

We walk up the stream for about 1 kilometre. The young lads show us lots of things along the way including springs and quick sand. We have to climb around a few rock faces before we come to the waterfall, which really isn’t very impressive. We head back stopping to get wet at a smaller waterfall which is a bit more accessible. It’s hot and the waterfall is exactly what we need. We walk back down the stream taking photos. As we near the end of the stream the lads ask for money, saying that the bigger boys will take it off them if we pay them back at the bike. I give them 50,000Dong to share between them. Naturally they ask for more, 100,000Dong each. I laugh and say no. They persist, so I take the money back off them and walk away. They then say OK, 50,000Dong is fine, so I give it back. We pay for the bike and leave.

I ask the lads about somewhere good to swim and they point us in the direction of the beach we tried earlier. We head back that way, but the tide is still too high. We see another bigger stretch of sand in the distance. We ride as close as we can, getting lost in a few bigger resorts. We see one guy who suggests we follow him down a lane. We follow, and the lane turns really rocky. Eventually we make it down to the beach side, but the waves are strong and we only stop for a few minutes before heading off.

We go back to the hotel and relax for the afternoon. I buy our bus tickets for tomorrow to take us to Saigon.

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Moving hotel and motorbike rides in Mui Ne, Vietnam

Our room last night was a bit below par, so first thing we take a walk and look at a place we looked at last night. We come back, grab our bags and get some breakfast. We feel much happier in our new room.

We relax for a while and set off for a swim. But, the wind is so strong that there is no sandy beach left, and it is certainly too dangerous to swim. A bit deflated we decide to rent a motorbike, something that is always fun.

Our bike is a bit battered, but we head off full of enthusiasm. We ride right down to the local fishing village, as far as we can go. The views are good, although a little windy. We turn around and ride back towards Phat Thien. The town is pretty small and we seem to ride right through it. We go back and watch a photo shoot on the beach for what looks like a music video.

We jump on the bike and stop for some souvenir shopping. Then back to the hotel for food and sleep.

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