Backwaters cruise from Kollan to Alleppey, Kerala

Up early, a quick walk around and breakfast at a Indian coffee house with the locals. I decide to take the backwaters cruise to Alleppey.

I jump in a tuk-tuk, and after a little confusion, I get to the lakeside jetty. There is only one boat with any activity, but no one seems keen to check tickets, so I get on, assuming it’s the right boat.

It turns out it is the right boat, and we start cruising. Right from the start the scenery is stunning. After chugging across lakes we enter the rivers and canals. The scenery is constantly changing between empty fields, small homes, and boats with people fishing or transporting goods.

After a few hours we settle into the canals proper. There are lots of villagers waving. This looks like an idyllic place – living on an island, with everything you need, a canoe for transport, and endless sunshine and fish. I’m tempted to get off the boat and somewhere to stay on an island!

We pass several houseboats which look lovely, and a perfect way for a couple or group of friends to spend 24 hours, floating on a beautiful waterway with stunning scenery. Unfortunately I am traveling on my own, and these houseboats cost INR6,000 for 24 hours. My cruise today has cost INR300. I’m happy with the cruise today, it’s much better that a bus or train. I might take a canoe ride tomorrow in Alleppey, to see more traditional backwater life up close.

Backwaters cruise from Kollan to Alleppey, Kerala Read More »

Pangandaran, Java, Indonesia

When we get upstairs to our room it is excellent, one of the best we have stayed in during our time in Indonesia. We quickly settle in and drop off our bags of laundry.

We head out for a walk and make our way down the beach. This is a nice town, clearly popular with Indonesian tourists rather than foreign visitors, but there are a few western orientated restaurant/bars. There are some signs of the tsunami that hit here several years ago, which is still on my mind after the lady from the travel agent mentioned it. We see several large and fairly new buildings with the windows blown out. There are also several large walled areas which look as though the buildings inside have been flattened and the remaining bricks have been piled for later use. I also see a few old buildings with the ceilings bent up, and roadside areas that have clearly been washed away.

We walk back up the beach and stop at the Bamboo cafe. We get chatting to a nice Indonesian guy who is waiting for high-tide so he can go surfing. We talk about a lot of things. He works on a cruise ship around Europe. He comes home for a few months of the year to relax and wait for the surf it seems. He mentions that there is some discrimination on the boats he works on, saying that Europeans are paid more than him for the same job, and that Muslim crew cannot work on the bridge. This later statement doesn’t seem right at all. The pay scales I can understand, although not altogether agree with, as the costs of living in Europe are obviously higher than in Asia, and it is fair to have a crew made of various nationalities. Maybe his comment about the Muslim bridge crew is from experience rather than rules. Perhaps Muslim crew find they cannot gain jobs on the bridge, rather than simply not being allowed to be appointed to them. Whichever way, I feel bad that such discrimination exists, but I’m happy that he and his fellow countrymen are able to find such well paid and rewarding work. He also mentions that he often works at his friend’s money changing business, which largely caters for Indonesians returning home from working abroad with pay cheques that need cashing. This is also good news, although it’s always a shame that people need to leave their homeland to find good employment. But, at least to me, it seems good that the people of Indonesia have this option. In my experience they are hard working, honest and incredible friendly and helpful people, maybe more so on Java than the other major islands we have visited.

We get a take away (the first on the trip) and relax with a movie that evening. A little taste of home, and it’s nice enjoying the laptop that was such a funny experience to buy.

Pangandaran, Java, Indonesia Read More »

Kollam, Kerala, India

After the long train ride (18 hours) I step off into Kerala. Kollam is a busy town, which, surprisingly, doesn’t irritate me after several weeks of relaxing at the beach. I quickly get into a very reasonable hotel, the room is just INR150, back to normal prices, and probably the cheapest room on my trip so far.

After a quick walk around I realise that there is not much to do in town, so tomorrow I will head over to the lake and jump on a boat towards Alappuzha, for a Kerala backwater experience.

I don’t have quite enough time to do everything I want to do in Kerala. So, I’m going to freestyle it to the last hour, and see what happens 🙂

Kollam, Kerala, India Read More »

Somewhere near Kerala, India

I woke several times before sunrise, but I dose until the sun has risen. This is a noisy carriage, but my earplugs help greatly. Surprisingly it’s not the children, who behave impeccable, but the adults who generate the noise. I convert my bed to seats and watch the dawn landscape rushing by.

After a couple of coffees, a lot of reading and some samosas, I decide this train ride is no where near as exciting as the last one. It’s Ok though, as I have several interesting books, and a number of good conversations which see me through until 17:30.

Somewhere near Kerala, India Read More »

Waiting for the train to Kerala, India

I say goodbye to Ramnath and his team, who I’ve come to know well over the last days. I’ve loved Goa, but it’s time to move on.

At Canacona railway station I start a conversion with a man from New York. He has come to India mainly for dental work, but also to find the mystical India he longed to visit as a youth. He says he hasn’t found that India though. He became unwell in Varanasi and caught the train to the south to get well.

We talk for hours about many things; mainly India, it’s troubles, frustrations and the future. He constantly compares India to the USA, something I have noticed other US citizens do more than any other nation. He is highly praising of the British influence left in India. He says our train, which rolls in 1.5 hours late, would have been punctual and spotless 50 years ago, during the British Raj. This is something I hadn’t paid too much thought, but I think he is probably right. He also refers to the Western world as Europe, including the USA and Australia. I don’t question him about that, but think I understand what he means, presuming that all Western countries evolved from European settlers.

The train is packed. I have no bedding in my birth. I mention this to the ticket inspector who informs me ‘He is coming with it’. ‘He’ never shows though and I’m glad of the blanket I bought.

Waiting for the train to Kerala, India Read More »

Waiting for the train to Kerala, India

I say goodbye to Ramnath and his team, who I’ve come to know well over the last days. I’ve loved Goa, but it’s time to move on.

At Canacona railway station I start a conversion with a man from New York. He has come to India mainly for dental work, but also to find the mystical India he longed to visit as a youth. He says he hasn’t found that India though. He became unwell in Varanasi and caught the train to the south to get well.

We talk for hours about many things; mainly India, it’s troubles, frustrations and the future. He constantly compares India to the USA, something I have noticed other US citizens do more than any other nation. He is highly praising of the British influence left in India. He says our train, which rolls in 1.5 hours late, would have been punctual and spotless 50 years ago, during the British Raj. This is something I hadn’t paid too much thought, but I think he is probably right. He also refers to the Western world as Europe, including the USA and Australia. I don’t question him about that, but think I understand what he means, presuming that all Western countries evolved from European settlers.

The train is packed. I have no bedding in my birth. I mention this to the ticket inspector who informs me ‘He is coming with it’. ‘He’ never shows though and I’m glad of the blanket I bought.

Waiting for the train to Kerala, India Read More »

Final thoughts on Goa, India

Today is my last day in Goa. Tonight I catch the overnight train from Canacona to Kollam, in Kerala. It’s a long ride; from 11pm to 5.30pm the next day. It’s a big distance though, something I didn’t really realise until I checked a big map earlier. I am traveling to the southern end of Kerala, and making my way back north as I fly from Kochi to Singapore.

I have loved Goa. The sun drenched beaches, beach huts, friendly faces and great food have made my stay better than I had imagined. There are a few things I would like to have done, but chose instead to relax and concentrate on some writing.

I have probably stayed too long in Goa. I have about 7 days in Kerala, which is enough time to see the essentials. I left it a little late in booking my train ticket. But, I know I will return to both Goa and Kerala in the not too distant future, and I always like to leave plenty to come back for.

Now, to swap my books and charge my MP3 player for the long train ride….

Final thoughts on Goa, India Read More »

Fishing without a boat, Patnem Beach, Goa

I’ve seen these guys fishing with a net on poles on the beach here at Patnem Beach. They very skilfully wade out, unfold the net and spread it out across the waves. They then wait a few seconds, before slowly and carefully bringing the net towards the shore. It always attracts a crowd of tourists and often locals.

Yesterday I saw them catch several big fish. Today they had just a few sprats.

Fishing without a boat, Patnem Beach, Goa Read More »