Nepal 2007

3 hours in a boat floating on Phewa Tal lake, Pokhara, Nepal

Pokhara Lake

I rent a boat for the second time this week and head out onto the beautiful lake, with a bottle of water, a kit kat and something to smoke. I spend more than 3 hours floating around, paddling in and amongst the shallows.

I love the peace and quiet of being on the lake, and I love paddling a boat around. This is such a beautiful spot, if I had to spend several months away from home then this is perhaps the spot I would choose.

On my next visit to Nepal I intend to use most of the 2 month visa, rather than a few weeks like I have this time.

3 hours in a boat floating on Phewa Tal lake, Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

I have been 15 minutes out for over a week

I though that India and Nepal shared the same time zone. It turns out Nepal is 15 minutes ahead of India, just to be different. Over the last few days I had realised that clocks I saw were 10-15 minutes out from mine. Today I read that there is a 15 minutes difference. Thankfully I was early for the only bus I have had to catch yet, but I did think at the time that is was going early!

I have been 15 minutes out for over a week Read More »

Giving to the needy, and those who work hard

Since being in India and Nepal I have seen lots of beggars – people who do not have enough and ask for help. I have read many times that giving money and food to beggars is discouraged because it encourages people to live this way, and stops then from finding more social ways of proving for themselves. In India and Nepal the giving of alms to religious men is a part of culture, but this can sometimes promote begging in other classes of society.

I give a little to those religious men, and rarely to others. This seems like a bad thing to do, but I am following the advice of people who know more about this than me. I reward local kids when they help me. I think this encourages work ethics, inline with tourism, which is often the best prospect for future work.

Today, whilst sitting on the balcony of the hotel, I saw an old lady carrying earth in the basket on her back which she bought into the garden of the hotel and tipped into an empty flower border. She was obviously tired. The family owners of the hotel have nicely spruced up the garden since I have been here. I get the impression they are new owners, or are making a bigger effort, which is still well above par. When the old lady was done the lady of the house took her a bowl of cooked rice and vegetables, the lady was delighted, and sat down to eat. I noticed she used a spoon, which is uncommon for the Nepalese, but I understand they use cutlery when their hands are dirty. One of the boys from the hotel they handed the lady a bottle of chilled water.

It was so nice to see this kind of community interaction. I don’t think the family of the hotel looked down upon the old lady at all. She is from a different caste, the complicated class system in Nepal and India. I think the family were glad to give the lady work, and were glad to give her some of their own food.

These are the differences in cultures, how these things often do and often don’t happen, but are always important.

When I walked to the World Peace Pagoda I made the mistake of following an American couple and their grown up son. The way was very unclear, and whilst following behind them they turned around saying that a local kid had said it was the other way. I thought it was indeed the other way, the Americans were not sold. The kid directed us to a steep bank were the mountain started. This looked right to me, but the American son was saying how this wasn’t the track and the kid would get us lost and ask for money. My instinct said otherwise and I gave the kid NRs5 (10 cence or 5 pence) for his help. He asked If I needed a guide, I said no, and double checked it was the right way to go. The kid said yes.

I started to climb the mountain, saw more worn tracks and carried on up. I met several people who were coming down and was confident the kid had sent me on the right way. The views from the top were magnificent, as was the Pagoda. After a long rest at the top, I was coming down the mountain and met the Americans who were going up. We exchanged words on how me had made it, and passed each other. I now wish I had asked them if they had gotten lost by not following the kids advice.

I think giving to the needy is appropriate at times. I think giving people something for nothing is wrong, especially with children as they will have much better lives by going to school, and learning about Nepal, farming, business, health and English. If they beg they often don’t go to school.

Today I bought some badges to sew onto my backpack, which seems quite a hippy thing to do on retrospect. However, one that I wanted was out of stock, only the display one left. The guy says no problem, he will make it by tonight. It turns out he had made all of the t-shirts, shirts, towels, blankets, badges and other numerous things in this shop. I was impressed. When it came to the price I knew the price was inflated because I was a tourist. As I prepare to barter I realised I was going to try and reduce the price by 30 or 40 pence. The badge must surely take 1 hour to make, and I would deprive him of this money? Of course not, I am very happy to pay tourist prices for a hand make product by a skilled man supporting his family. I had exchanged nemaste with his young daughter earlier. It’s difficult to adjust to the inflated prices and haggling systems when your start a trip, but I have learn’t that some things are worth paying for, and to not try to save a few pence that would mean nothing at home.

Giving to the needy, and those who work hard Read More »

Mountain biking around Phewa Tal, Pokhara, Nepal

The roads around the Phewa Tal lake are flat so I rent a mountain bike and spend most of the day riding north along the lake’s edge. Away from the bustle of the main street things are very quiet. It’s a hot day and I love riding through the small settlements and a village or two. I pass a few locals doing their business. I have a quick chat with some of the kids.

I also head south, but without roadsides I don’t go too far. I return the bike, have tea and do some writing.

I think I will stay here for a few more days and then head back to Kathmandu. I’m hoping to see Mount Everest, further east of Kathmandu.

Mountain biking around Phewa Tal, Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

Walking around Phewa Tal, Pokhara, Nepal

After breakfast and some internet action I take a walk north through the town, following the lake to the next village. The views are stunning. I eat the pasty (not bad) and danish pastry (good) that I bought from the bakery. Some small kids come up to chat as I sit at one of the few places where you can really stop along this road.

I have a little think and decide to not do the kayaking course. I’d rather stay by the lake and exhaust the things to do here, such as renting a mountain bike, a boat again and maybe a motorbike. I ask about the half day kayaking course, but it is only on the lake.

Walking around Phewa Tal, Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

Boating and camping supplies, Pokhara, Nepal

I head down to the lake and rent a boat. I spend an hour paddling around the lake, up to the Hindu shrine in the middle, and back to the shore again. I enjoy it a lot, and decide to try the 4 day kayak clinic before I head back to Kathmandu.

On my way back to the hotel I chat with a trekking shop owner and buy a sleeping bag and roll mat for my India overland trip. I also need the sleeping bag for the kayak trip.

I spend the rest of the afternoon writing.

Boating and camping supplies, Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

Blissed out in the Himalaya, Pokhara, Nepal

After breakfast and an internet catchup I sit on the balcony of the hotel, lapping up the sunshine and amazing view of the Himalaya.

I mind the reception whilst the lady of the house nips out. When she returns we chat about things are she brings me Nepali tea. I watch the hand full of locals around the hotel go about their business. I don’t think life gets much better than this.

Blissed out in the Himalaya, Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

Walk to the World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara, Nepal

After a hearty breakfast I take a walk out towards the World Peace Pagoda.
The Pagoda is atop a big hill overlooking the town of Pokhara. There are three ways of approaching, but I opt for the more strenuous 2 hour trek.

The instructions in my guide book are a little vague, and there are no signs to help. Eventually I find the bridge over the river and onto the path around the paddy fields. After a little guidance from a local kid, who I reward with Rs5, I and an American couple head up the steep hill amongst the dense trees.

It’s a fairly hard climb and the shade of the trees is a blessing. Eventually, after several steep sections I come to a clearing at the top, and a short walk brings me to the Pagoda itself. The views are outrageous.

After a brief stop I make my way back down the path. I soon meet a girl from Norfolk, we chat all the way back to the main strip. She has spent several days trekking and it’s interesting to hear her thoughts and experience. We arrange to met up for something to eat with an Israeli friend of hers tonight.

Walk to the World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

Pokhara, Nepal

An early start to catch the 06:30 bus to Pokhara.
We head across Kathmandu and into the valley. The road is of poor quality and is busy with traffic, but hugs the valley side and the views are outstanding as we descend down into the valley.
We stop for lunch, which is included in the bus ticket. The food is good and the restaurant is in a beautiful garden area. We get back on the road and soon get to Pokhara.
[G2:1655 class=g2image_float_left]I get a taxi to a recommended guest house, the Orient Youth Hostel, with is clean and quiet as it is away from the main bustle. I opt for the more expensive room with a great view of Fish Tail mountain.
I take a walk up and down the main strip, stopping for lemon tea, and to watch the boaters on the lake.
I am tempted to try some Kayaking whilst I am here, and will definitely be doing some walks, but not mighty multi-day hikes.

Pokhara, Nepal Read More »

Patan Durbur Square, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal

After breakfast I book a bus ticket to Polkhara. I opt for the comfortable tourist bus as it is an 8 hours trip.
I get some cash and sort out my washing at the hotel.
I jump in a taxi and head to Patan’s Durbur square. I’ve decided to leave visiting Bodhnath Stupa until I return to Kathmandu in a week or so. I read that accommodation there is good, and I think it will be nice to stay there instead of Kathmandu.
At Patan I’m surprised by the small size of Durbur Square. More modern buildings fill the gaps in between the temples. The core sights are very impressive. I wander around the streets and temples.
I stop at a rooftop cafe, but I’m amazed that it is empty. I notice all of the other cafes are also just about empty. Have the Maoist actions had that much of an effect on the the tourism in Nepal? The cafe has an amazing view of the Himalaya
and the Square
I stop inside the museum, which I’ve read is the best in the sub-continent. It’s a beautiful building which has been well restored. The Budda and other statues are well explained, and it’s a good stop. I take a final look around the square and grab a taxi. The taxi driver drives a hard financial bargain, but we settle on Rs200 (the price I paid to get there) when I decide to get out.
It’s rush hour and the traffic is bad. When we finally arrive at Thamel the driver tries for more money again, but I have none of it.
I stop at the New Orleans cafe for a beer.

Patan Durbur Square, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal Read More »