I’ve seen these guys fishing with a net on poles on the beach here at Patnem Beach. They very skilfully wade out, unfold the net and spread it out across the waves. They then wait a few seconds, before slowly and carefully bringing the net towards the shore. It always attracts a crowd of tourists and often locals.
Yesterday I saw them catch several big fish. Today they had just a few sprats.
Fishing without a boat, Patnem Beach, Goa Read More »
I love just about everything about tropical beaches. The warm sunshine, warm water, cold beer, fresh seafood (I’m not normally a fan of seafood), beach huts, peoples smiling faces, palm trees, fresh fruit, the warm sand on my feet even after the sun has set, and the magical spirit that one only finds at tropical beaches.
I get bored and restless easily, I’ve always got to be doing something. Yet at a tropical beach I can stretch the whole day out, doing just a handful of things. I almost never sunbath, but can kill hours swimming, walking, or sitting in the shade reading.
I have a lot of tropical beaches yet to visit, and I’m looking forward to enjoying every last one of them 🙂
Why I love tropical beaches Read More »
I’ve been staying at the Mountain Palms beach huts on Patnem Beach for the last 5 nights (and the next 6). I’ve eaten all but one of my meals here.
The place is run by Ranmath, a lovely Goan guy, who with his excellent team will do anything he can do to help, without ever trying to sell me anything. Which is a very welcome scenario in India, where everyone has something they want you to buy.
He lets me keep a tab and I was even a few days late in paying my rent, to which he didn’t say a word.
His English is good enough for us to chat about various things. This summer he got a bank loan and spent a lot of money on his huts only to find fewer tourists visiting because of the increased complication with tourists visas. I hope he makes enough this year and things get better next year.
I asked him what he did before he built the restaurant, and he said he didn’t have a job. He says that in March everything is taken apart and packed away. He then has the rainy summer to relax. I’ve noticed that he and his team are up at at least 7am every morning, and they stay open until everyone has gone to bed, normally 11pm. They don’t have a break, but they do play chess in the evening when it’s quiet.
So, I’ll enjoy the remainder of my stay here. I’ve got a little list of things to do – visit Green Island, rent a kayak, maybe a fishing trip, writing, reading, but no Dolphin spotting trip. I’ll save that until I meet my Girlfriend in a few weeks.
Ramnath, my landlord, host and friend at Mountain Palms, Patnem Beach, Goa, India Read More »
Well, I’ve not done a lot over the last few days. I’ve done several long walks, a lot of swimming, quite a bit of writing, and I’ve read several books. Actually, come to think of it, I have done quite a lot. I guess I mean that there are still quite a few things I want to do here that I haven’t done yet.
But that’s OK. From Goa I intend to travel south to Kerala, where I will enjoy the towns and of course the backwaters – the wonderful canals and river ways that Kerala is famous for.
Today I checked the availability of seats on the train to Kerala. The 1st and 2nd of January are unsuprisingly fully bookd. So this leaves the question – When should I leave Goa? I could leave tomorrow and be happy that I had ‘done’ Goa. You know, had a good experience. But I don’t want too many days in Kerala, looking at streets and towns, in blistering heat with no sea to jump in, when I could spend that time in Goa.
I’m so indecisive that I’ve spent most of the day not making a decision. So, I just saw a travel agent and asked him to get me a ticket as soon after the New Year as possible. I’m guessing it will be the 4th or 5th, but that’s fine. That gives me more time here in paradise, eating seafood, writing and enjoying the hospitality of my host Ramnath. To save time though I have booked my train ticket to Kollam, in the south of Kerala. I am flying from Kochi, at the northern end of Kerala’s sights, to Bali on the 12th January. So I’ll start in the south and work my way north, saving time and uncessary backtracking.
I will definately take a houseboat from Kollam to Alleppey, and hopefully another from Alleppey to Kochi. This would be great, traveling Kerala entirely by the backwaters.
Time permitting I’ll also visit the hilltop tea plantation of Munmar.
I’m looking forward to the next leg of my trip, but I’m also looking forward to at least 5 more nights here at Patnem beach in Goa.
Another Lazy Day in Goa, India Read More »
A 7am start, probably my earliest ever for a boxing day. After breakfast I rented a scooter and headed north towards Anjuna, where on a Wednesday the flea market is held.
The roads are furious and hectic, but quite fun. The roadsigns are reasonably good, and enough to get me near to Mapusa, from where I head to Baja beach, which I noticed was the only beach in India with a surf report on the MagicSeaWeed website. This is either because this is best surf here (although I have read that Patnem has the biggest waves), or because it is the only beach with a bouy reading they can use on the website.
It’s probably the later, as when I arrive at Baja beach the wave is no different to that of Patnem. But boy are there a lot of people there. There are so many sun loungers and people that I have to weave my wave through them to see the sea. This is exaclty the sort of place I don’t like – wall to wall tourists, surprisingly many of them are Indian tourists. I thought they would long for somewhere quieter. I need a break from the scooter, which has given me a numb bum, and rest with a banana lassi and my first sandwich on the trip, and quit possible the strangest toasted sandwich I have ever had. There was barely enough filling to qualify it as a sandwich. Any less and it would have been toast. But it only cost 50 pence, and always remember, when in rome….
Onward then to Anjuna. After deciding not to go down what I though was the lane for market, I end up at the beach and walk a few kilometers to the market through the sweltering heat. I pass through little settlements that, as always in India, as quite interesting. There are a lot of rooms available for rent.
As if by magic the lads I met on Elephanta Island pop up and ask if I am famous again. We chat briefly, they are looking for rooms.
Eventually I see the market in the distance, which is huge, and walk in.
Unfortaunately the market seems to be filled with only the few different types of stall one finds in Indian tourist places ( jewlery, clothes, music and food) and they all seem to be selling the same stuff at seemingly infalted prices. I guess this is a very tourist zone with tourists spending money, so what else would one expect?
My girlfriend’s sister (Becky) asked me to buy her some India jewelery parts so that she can make some necklaces and other things. I was expecting things to costs around 50 pence per item. When I ask they cost around £6, which would obviously come down a lot with bartering, but this seems way to expensive. It then dawns on me that I know nothing about Jewelery, silver, (which all the jewelery seems to be made from) or really what Becky wants. I decide, even after coming all of this way, that I shouldn’t risk wasting her money. I am sure there will be similar things for sale in Southeast Asia and my girlfriend can buy them for Becky with sisterly love (and advanced jewelery knowledge).
Absolutely parched I down a bottle of water, and a couple of samosas. I’m tired after the 2 hours scooter ride, and decide not to do anything else today, which is quite unlike me. I jump on the scooter and make the almost painful 2 hour ride back to the Patnem, where upon arrival, my very friendly landlord Ranmath serves me a wonderful banana lassi, and I go for a swim.
Rented a scooter and rode to Baja and onto Anjuna for the market, Goa, India Read More »
I spent the day swimming, reading, generally relaxing and eating nice food – like all good travellers should 🙂
A lazy Christmas Day, Patnem Beach, Goa, India Read More »
After a fairly restless night in which I had to rescue my sandals from being eaten by rodents, I awake a bit blurry eyed. I am keen to leave this beach hut, and so head south to Patnem beach.
I walk across the beach and stop at the place I looked at yesterday. It seems to be one of the few places with a direct beach view. The same guy from yesterday comes over and we chat briefly. I get a good rate and have a cup of tea in the restaurant. Some other Brits in the restaurant and really enjoying their food, and book for Christmas day with they guy, which is a good sign.
I take a swim and get on with clearing my writing backlog, which has been slowly building up.
Onto Patnem beach, Goa, India Read More »
After a swim I head to a restaurant near my hut. A guy there asks if I need a room, which I don’t but we start chatting and he says he is from Nepal. I tell him I went recently and we end up chatting for over an hour.
He is 19 and from the east of Nepal. He and 4 other friends spent 3 days traveling by train to Goa, where they will work for 6 months before returning home to continue their studies. They don’t make much money, but they are having a good time. It is the first time they have seen a beach, and tasted seafood. He said he thought lobsters were incredible creatures.
We talk about a lot of things, and he is an interesting kid. I carefully bought up the subject of the Maoists in Nepal. He says he is for them, as they are trying to make a better Nepal. I still don’t know what to think, but told him I thought their cause was good, but didn’t think their tactics were the best.
I checked whether he gets to keep his tips, which he does, and gave him a little.
Very interesting chat with a Nepali guy working in Colomb, Goa, India Read More »
I need cash and there is no ATM in Palolem, so I try to rent a moped, which just ends with some guy ringing his brother, so I walk away and eventually rent a mountain bike further out of Palolem. I ride to Canacona, get some cash and ride to Patnem beach.
It’s a lovely beach, smaller and quieter than Palolem, and it is has a good vibe. After lunch I take a walk and ask around at some beach huts. The prices are around INR800. This looks a good spot for me and I think I will return tomorrow to stay. I notice a guy has an NSP surfboard, but the surf is pretty poor. There doesn’t seem anywhere to rent a board. Shame.
I notice what looks like the headland were I am staying at the northern end of the beach, so I can just walk here in the morning.
A trip to Patnem beach, Goa, India Read More »
The taxi driver drops me off, I fend off the touts and walk onto the beach. This place is backpacker paradise. Not commercial, no resorts, just beach huts, restaurants and outrageous scenery.
I take a walk down the beach and ask at a few places about rooms. One guy has a room, which is INR1,000, but the price goes up to INR3,000 over the Christmas days! I show my business card and get a INR200 discount. It looks like the business cards were a good idea after all.
I unpack and take a walk on the beach. I need to find other accommodation and walk all the way south, over the rocks and find a little community on the other side. It is much quieter here and has its own little private beach.
I ask about rooms and prices. They have rooms and the price is INR1,500 over the Christmas period. I pull out my business card and ask about a discount. The guys chat quickly and say I can get the room for INR1,300. I take a look at the room, which is good enough and has a wonderful view. He says this will be the room I have and offers me it for INR1,200. Bargain, well it’s probably the most expensive room I’ve had yet, but I paid INR9,85 in Mumbai for a windows cell, and nearly this price in Kathmandu. Considering this is paradise and other places are charging INR3,000 I think I’ve done pretty well. Good bless the business cards!
I grab lunch, buy some essentials, have a look around and go for a swim.
I’m pretty happy here.
The paradise of Palolem Beach, Goa, India Read More »