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After breakfast I book a bus ticket to Polkhara. I opt for the comfortable tourist bus as it is an 8 hours trip.
I get some cash and sort out my washing at the hotel.
I jump in a taxi and head to Patan’s Durbur square. I’ve decided to leave visiting Bodhnath Stupa until I return to Kathmandu in a week or so. I read that accommodation there is good, and I think it will be nice to stay there instead of Kathmandu.
At Patan I’m surprised by the small size of Durbur Square. More modern buildings fill the gaps in between the temples. The core sights are very impressive. I wander around the streets and temples.
I stop at a rooftop cafe, but I’m amazed that it is empty. I notice all of the other cafes are also just about empty. Have the Maoist actions had that much of an effect on the the tourism in Nepal? The cafe has an amazing view of the Himalaya
and the Square
I stop inside the museum, which I’ve read is the best in the sub-continent. It’s a beautiful building which has been well restored. The Budda and other statues are well explained, and it’s a good stop. I take a final look around the square and grab a taxi. The taxi driver drives a hard financial bargain, but we settle on Rs200 (the price I paid to get there) when I decide to get out.
It’s rush hour and the traffic is bad. When we finally arrive at Thamel the driver tries for more money again, but I have none of it.
I stop at the New Orleans cafe for a beer.

After lunch I decide to take a walk away from the city to the Swayambhunath temple.
I head towards the recommended junction but can’t see the obvious route. I head down a quite road passing very Nepalese surroundings. The road reduces down to a lane, which is a little unnerving at first, but I soon enjoy seeing real Kathmandu, and the lack of touts.
In the distance I spot the unmistakable sight of the temple. I didn’t realise it was perched on a massive hill, but then remembered reading that the views were amazing.
I head down a hill and across a bridge. I follow the dusty road for quite a while, the walk is longer than I expected, but is good. I chat briefly with some school kids retuning from school. I figured they wouldn’t be tour guides trying to sell me something like most other people.
As I near the temple there are more people and I am excited by the experience. There are a lot of steps to climb, so I get stuck in. I pay about 3/4 of the way up, and as I finish the climb the beautiful temple rises out of the hill.
I have seen this image many times in the film Baraka, but it is awesome to see it for real. I take a minute, turn away from the temple and admire the view of Kathmandu. When my heart rate returns to normal I take a slow stroll around the sight, in a clockwise direction as one should. I ring some of the prayer wheels, as I have always wanted to do.
Around the main temple are smaller temples and interesting buildings. There are quite a few of the monkeys that give this temple the nickname of the Monkey Temple. I do another lap and explore some things towards the back of the sight.

I see the taxi stop at the top of the hill, which is good to know in case I stay until dark. I return to the main sight and stop at a tiny uninviting roof top cafe. I order a black tea and enjoy the view.
A monkey steals sugar from another table, and I enjoy a long conversation with an Australian couple from Albany, where my friend Zoe’s parents live. The conversion turns internet related as John, the Aussie chap, in involved with an Albany community website.
We all leave the cafe together, say goodbye, and I take another lap of the temple.
It is dusk, and I decide to try the walk home. I didn’t walk down the obvious route to the sight, and am proud of myself of finding my way back to Thamel, without a map or road names, in Kathmandu in the dark. A compass and a good sense of direction gets me a long way. It’s an interesting night time walk, which I reward with a trip to the New Orleans cafe.
A beer turns into several, Tibetan Mosas and apple pie with ice cream – all for about £5. Before I leave the cafe and head back to the hotel a musician plays some music with his traditional bamboo flute, more reminders of Baraka.

My body clock seems to have settled as I wake to a noisy Kathmandu.

I head down to the New Orleans cafe for coffee and a pancake.
I walk down towards Durbur Square, passing various temples and streets along the way. There are quite a few touts about this morning.
My compass proves very handy as orientation is difficult without road names. I spot the palaces through an alley and head over. I pay the entrance fee (Rs200) and head in.

The temples and palaces really are amazing. I have seen images of many of them before. I walk around taking photos before climbing one of the temples for a birds eye view, and to escape the touts. Freak street is nothing to see.
I continue walking and I’m curious about some of the off-limits areas. I see an entrance to the museum. It costs Rs100, but bags and cameras must be left with the guards. I pay and enter. I soon realise that the whole inner courtyard area is out of bounds to everyone and I have entry to only the museum, which is a collection of artefacts from mainly on king. It’s interesting nevertheless.

I leave, taking a final look around the square and head back to the New Orleans cafe for lunch and send some emails.

I didn’t get to sleep until late as my body clock is still adjusting. I did make use of my awake time by reading and by throwing away things from my backpack that I really didn’t need, such as flip flops (I’ll buy more when required), an underwater camera and some packaging.

I got up at 07:30 then washed and packed. The taxi van dashed my across Delhi, of which I have seen enough, although I may return yet for a connection to Goa.

At the airport I speak to many people in the process of trying to find the ticket office. There are many people being friendly and helpful and I feel bad ignoring some of them, but there can be risks dawdling, and I have things to do.

In the ticket office I’m told to return after 10:00 (it’s 08:30 now) and the wicket will costs about Rs7,000 (£85) which is more than the online price, but still great value. I ask about a lounge where I can wait and I’m pointed in the right direction. It costs me Rs30 to enter which surprises me, but it’s reasonably nice inside and I’m later glad it costs to enter, as it’s tout and hassle free.

At 10:00 I return to the ticket office, loosing a overly helpful chap once inside the office. I buy the ticket and head upstairs. I check in and get through security. There are almost no facilities once through security, but I manage to buy a orange drink and a packet of crisps for breakfast.

The flight is late taking off, but the views are amazing. I nap a little, but am awake as we approach and enter Kathmandu.

Immigration, visas and customs are straight forward. I pre-pay for a cab. The guys are trying to sell me their hotel. I resist at first, but their brochure actually looks good. I am pretty resilient and see both the new and old rooms of the hotel. I settle for the cheaper older room, which is more than enough. I later check the guide book and find the hotel is well recommended. The owner seems to take over proceedings and asks me all about what tours I will be doing. I’m polite but make it clear I’m not buying anything, but If I need help I’ll ask. He seems quite deflated, but I’ve been treated well and finish my tea before going upstairs for my first shower since London.

I settle in, grab by compass and head into the streets of the backpacker area. I walk up and down the main roads, but don’t stray too far as I don’t have a map. I fend off a few touts. There are a lot of torts on offer, and a lot of trekking gear here.

Nepal is more friendly, chilled and cooler than Delhi. I’m glad I took my jumper with me. I stop at the New Orleans cafe I had heard about. It’s a pretty nice place, so I order cafe latte and a piece of chocolate cake.

I head back to the hotel, which is struggling with its mandatory power-out.