Thailand

Phuket Town is a stylish, pleasant town and a good place to stay if you want to explore Phuket Island rather than just stay by the beach.  Phuket town was on the China-India trade route and remnants of this remain in it's multicultural people.  The town also has beautiful Portuguese styled buildings which are a joy to stay in.  

Getting Around

Local transport buses regularly run from outside the market  in town (by the big roundabout with the fountain off Ranong Road) .  You can reach all of the popular beach areas from around 20Baht.  Almost all buses return to Phuket town, but negotiate the fare before hand.

If you've arrived by boat from Ko Phi Phi it's easy to get to town from the jetty.  Most ferries offer a transfer service for 50Baht.

Scooters are perhaps the best way of exploring the island from Phuket town.  Prices are from 150Baht per day.  Many places in town rent scooters.  Traffic on the island is busy, and for confident riders only.  Helmets are compulsory on Phuket Island.

Getting There and Away

Phuket bus station

The main bus station is a 15 minute walk from the main town center.  All long distance buses start here, and go to all major destinations in Thailand.  You can buy tickets from the bus station.  There are lots of travel agents around the bus station, but you'll find the cheapest tickets from the bus operators themselves who have ticket counters inside the terminal.

To Ko Samui & Ko Phang-Na: Phantip offer bus and ferry combo tickets.  550Baht to Ko Phang-Na.  They have a ticket office in the bus terminal.  This option is cheap but takes a long time;  leaving Phuket at 10am you'll arrive at Ko Phang-Na at 20:30.  There are slightly more expensive mini-bus options, from 700Baht, that take less time on the road and connect with an earlier ferry.  The quickest, easiest and most expensive option is to charter a taxi to Surat Thani, and catch a ferry there.  A taxi will cost 2,000Baht, and 250Baht per person for the ferry.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Phuket Town is cheaper and generally of a better standard than you'll find at the tourist beach resorts.

Talang Guest House
Th Thalang
tel: 07621 4255
Highly recommended guest house.  The big, clean, hugely spacious and well decorated rooms and set within an old warehouse building with Portuguese styling.  Some of the rooms open onto a breezy gallery, and some have small views.  The rooms have lovely old furniture, great fittings, safety despost boxes, king size beds, hot showers and complimentary bottle of water on arrival.  The staff run a small travel shop downstairs, and are very friendly and helpful.  This is the place to recoup after spending masses of cash on the islands.  An easy 15 minute walk to the bus station.  One of the best guesthouses in Phuket and probably Thailand.  Simple, but good, continental breakfast included.  Rooms available included singles (280Baht), doubles (350Baht) and triples (450Baht).  Add 100Baht for AC.  9 out of 10.

Information

There is a post office in Phuket town.  There are several musical equipment shops if you need to buy a guitar or plectrums.  There are a number of hair dressers and massage shops.  The supermarket on Rasada Road is small, but a huge Tesco store can be found on the outskirts of town.  

Food and Drink

There are lots of places to eat in the town.  You'll find several cheap places, popular with the locals with menus in English.  There are also a number of more expensive places geared towards tourists.  Try the large open fronted place on the western end of Phang-Nga Road for cheap Thai food.  On the road leading to the supermarket, by the now closed shopping center on Rasada Road, Le Cafe serves great European and Thai food, and across the road a small Thai place servers very good, cheap Thai food.

See the guide to Phuket's beaches and to Phulet town .

Her is my guide to the beaches of Phuket.

• Laem Singh - North of Patong. A beautiful, small, resort free bay backed by high cliffs. Although there are a few restaurants and hawkers, Laem Singh is probably the least touristy beach in Phuket. That said, the beach sees many visitors and there are plenty of sun loungers to rent. The high cliffs give the beach an isolated feel. There is some snorkeling at the side of bay. The waves can break with force on the shore, so take care. There are several restaurants to choose from, a few casual hawkers selling things and guys renting jet skis. There is a small car parking area at the top of the cliffs for scooter parking (20Baht).
• Patong - The biggest, busiest and brashest of all Phuket beaches and resorts. Come her only for crowds, shopping, hassles and drinking.
• Rawai - A low bit thin beach in the south. There are better beaches to visit.
• Hat Nai - A quiet, pretty beach with few hassles and nice views of islands and yachts. Popular with westerners, particularly older couples. The resorts here are low key. There are a few restaurants overlooking the beach.

Krabi is a town in southern Thailand, but the term name is often associated with the region as there are several beautiful beaches around the town. Krabi is also a popular point from which to catch a boat to the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta and Phuket.

The area has many stunning limestone formations.

Accommodation

Ko Phi Phi is an island off the east coast of Thailand. The island is beautiful, made up of limestone crabs and hills, and home to some of the best diving and snorkeling in Thailand.  But Phi Phi is home to mainly package tourists, which has caused accomodation prices to rocket (700 Baht for the cheapest room), and you have to work hard to get away from the dense packs of tourists and tourist related services.  

Backpackers and budget travellers should consider whether a visit to Phi Phi is for them.  Accomodation costs are high and there are few, easily accesible bays around the island offering the lazy hammock swiming vibe you might be after.  For backpackers I personaly recommend skipping Ko Phi Phi and spending your time and money on the southwestern islands.

Backpacker tips for visiting Ko Phi Phi

• Research the islands bays before you arrive. Descide where you want to stay and book before you arrive.  Competition is fierce between those arriving by boat and looking for accommodation.
• You'll pay a high premium for a sea view.  Many resorts are big and your room could effectively be a short walk from the beachfront.  Save money by staying slightly inland, where the guesthouses are cheaper.
• If you're staying for a few nights try and negotiate a better price with your guesthouse.
• Look around for resturants offering traditional Thai food, they can be half the price of the tourist resturants.
• Water and other essential supplies are cheaper from local run stalls than corner stores.

Accommodation

Accommodation is difficult to find on Ko Phi Phi during the high season (Octobet to May).  A basic room will cost from 700Baht and will be away from the beach.  There are several tourist information centres just past the jetty with pictures and prices of the guesthouses.  You can choose your accommodation and the staff will book it for you.  This is the best option to avoid walking around and finding everywhere full.  When boats arrive at the jetty large groups of people descend on these tourist information centres, snapping up just about everyroom. 

Phi Phi Don Chukit
tel: 075 618126
Greatly overpriced and grotty rooms.  The resort is right next to the beach, but the cheaper rooms and a little walk into the island.  Nothing special about this place.  Towels included.  A 10 minute walk from the boat jetty.  Rooms from 1,000 Baht. 1 out of 10.

Getting there and away

Several boat companies run services between the islands.

xx insert south west boat info

Getting around

There are no roads on Ko Phi Phi.  Motorcycles and sidecars run people and their luggage around.  Most resorts will send a porter and cart to collect your luggage. 

Longtail boats are available to places all around the island, and you can find them anywhere.  A trip to Longbeach costs 100Baht.

Ko Pha Ngan is a small island of the coast of Thailand, primarily geared towards backpackers and tourists looking for a relaxed and quiet time.

Beaches

• Long Beach / Sandy Bay - A beautiful bay with some of deepest water on the west cost, which is OK for swimming at high tide.  Snorkeling is good throughout the bay.  There are many bars, restaurants, places to stay, shops and even an ATM on the beach.  Accommodation starts at 250 Baht for a chalet without a view.  Better value accommodation can be found in the hills around the bay and to the south, try Sun View a 20 minute walk south.
• Hat Thong Nai Pan Yai - Perhaps the best swimming and snorkelling beach on the island.  Hat Thong Nai Pan Yai is tucked away on the north east corner of the island.  The access road in unsealed which means fewer people make the long trek out there, but Sawngthaew do drive to the beach, and you can reach it by scooter or jeep if you take care. Many people get to the beach by boat. There are several beach restaurants and accommodation options for all prices ranges.  There is an ATM and small supermarket.  A 20 minute walk over a headland brings you to the sister beach of  Hat Thong Nai Pan Noi.
• Hat Thong Nai Pan Noi - On the other side of the bay to Hat Thong Nai Pan Yai, but the sea here isn't as calm, and you can sometimes find a little bit of surf.  The beach has all the facilities you would expect, and it's a easy walk to Hat Thong Nai Pan Yai.

Full Moon Parties

When the moon is full Hat Rin, on the southeastern tip, is invaded by thousands of visitors coming to soak up the sunshine and party atmosphere. At this time Accommodation around Hat Rin is rare to find, and overpriced.  Stay further afield and catch the local transport to the party.

Other Parties

There are lots of  parties even when the moon isnt full.  There are twice-monthly half moon parties, and weekly other parties around the island.  Just keep your eye open for posters.

Accommodation

Sun View Bungalows
30 or so bungalows set on the edge of a small bay.  Most of the bungalows have sea and sunset views.  The basic bungalows are good and well built.  They have solid walls, a balcony, hammock, fly screens, curtains, wall fan, power and a good bathroom.  The floorboards do have small gaps.  The more expensive bungalows are of solid construction and have AC.  The chilled and well stocked restaurant is staffed by ultra-friendly Thai's, the food is good.  You can walk down to a small beach area which is good for snorkeling, and onto a larger sandy beach.  Ferry pickup available.  Scooter rental and Internet available just over the road, mini-mart and other restaurants a short walk away.  It's a 20 minute walk to Sandy Bay/Long Beach.  Prices from 300Baht.

Getting there

As a westerner you're likely to be approached by an accommodation tout on the ferry.  Using one can save you effort and money on the islands, as the guest house/hotel should pick you up from the ferry jetty.  Good touts have a number of brochers from a range of accommodation and budgets.  Make sure the tout puts you on the transport once you get off the ferry.  Songserm are a popular and reliable ferry operator with a fleet of buses to other destinations.  They have their own jetty with an office at the end at Thong Sala on Ko Pha Ngan.

Getting Around

Pickups regularly run around the islands roads, just hail one down and agree a price (about 50 Baht).

For exploring, scooters can be rented per day for 150Baht for a manual and 200Baht for an automatic, and are available a lots of places around the guest houses.  Jeep can also be rented from various places.  The roads are generally good, but watch out for loose sand on the road, and the occasionally mud track.  The road out towards Hat Thong Nai Pan Yai on the north east coast is unsealed and care should be taken if riding a scooter.

Hat Yai is a commercial center and transport hub in the south of Thailand. However, it's a bit of a nothing town with little to do. It's a fine place to stay overnight, with a good selection of budget guesthouses, and a good place to change trains to travel north into Thailand or south into Malaysia. It is possible to catch the overnight express train (Express Langkawi) to Kuala Lumpur from Hat Yai.

There is a large supermarket located in the basement of a department store near the railway station, and I recommended stocking up on sandwiches and snacks if you are taking the overnight train to Kuala Lumpur, as the food on board the train is not very good.

Transport to and from Hat Yai

Hat Yai has a railway station to stations north and south, including the Malaysian Border and Bangkok.

There is also a large bus station out of town, with regular buses to major destinations including Bangkok, Krabi, Phuket, Kuala Lumpur and Surat Thani for ferries to Ko Samui and Ko Pha Ngan.

Accommodation in Hat Yai

There are some good budget accommodation choices in Hat Yai, many are a very easy walk from the railway station.

Louise Guesthouse
21-23 Thamnoonvitti Rd
tel: (074) 220 966
A clean and friendly hotel very close to the train station. Rooms are a good size and with bathroom. Some have views over the main street. Insect screens cover all of the windows and towels are provided. Most rooms have AC for an additional 200Baht. The entrance is amongst some shop fronts. Reception is open until midnight. Double rooms are 300Baht, 500Baht for AC.

Thailand