Nepal

Kathmandu

Taxi rides

Pokhara

Bus ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara

Chitwan National Park

Elephant Breeding Centre

Elephant safari

The Sunauli border crossing between India and Nepal is surely one of the liveliest in the world.  The customs and immigration offices flank the chaotic road that carries traffic between the two countries.

Note : Buses do not cross the border, so do not buy tickets that promise to do so.  All passengers must disembark buses on one side of the border, cross the border, and join a different bus in the other country.

Money: You can change your Nepali and India rupees at the border.  Approach an official money lender and agree a 1% commission charge, rather than a fix rate. The conversion rate is fixed at 1.6 Nepali rupees to Indian.

In terms of planning, it's chaos.  There is no where to park a vehicle and no clear instructions or direction on the steps required to cross the border.  it is a fairly efficient place though.  You're likely to be through the whole process in about 2 hours.

The shops around the border sell pretty much anything you might need.  There are also streets sellers who can help you out, but keep your whits about you.

The best restaurants and pretty much your only chance of finding a beer are on the Nepali side of the border.  The Indian side has nothing in terms of tourist related services.

There is no real reason to stay in Sunauli, but if you do the Nepali side offers a lot more.  My advice would be to keep going and not to stick around.

Royal Chitwan National Park, in Nepal, is a huge and beautiful nature reserve protecting 932 sq km of sal forest, water marshes and rippling grassland.  It is one of the last refuges of the endangered one-horned Indian rhino and there are sizeable populations of tigers, leopards and rare Gangetic dolphins.

By far the easiest way to visit the park is on a tour, but this is the most expensive option.  To save money stay at the nearby town of Sauraha. A small but lively tourist centre has grown up along the river bank about 6km south of Sauraha Chowk, with hotels, restaurants, bars, money changers, travel agents, Internet cafes and anything else you might need.

When to visit

October to February are the best times to visit Royal Chitwan National Park - the skies are clear the average daily temperature is 25 degrees Celsius.  Always bring plenty of insect repellent as mosquitoes are an inescapable part of jungle life, and malaria is present in some parts of the region.

Inside the park

Animals

Chitwan boasts more than 50 different species of mammals, including monkeys, tigers, leopards, sloth bears, wild boar, hyenas, deer, elephants and rhinos.  There are more than 450 different species of birds, and some 67 species of butterfly, some as large as your hand.

The park is most famous for the gaida, the one horned Indian rhinoceros. Despite poaching you stand a good chance of seeing one on elephant safari. 

The park also significant  populations of tigers, crocodiles and Gangetic dolphins (rare, blind, fresh water dolphins).

Safari

If you are intent on seeing the animals at the park, give yourself time for several safaris, as there is no guarantee you will see all of the wildlife.  Two whole days is really the minimum for a complete experience inside the park.  Beware that 3 and 4 day safaris often have a full day of traveling included at either end of the trip, so check what you are getting.

The Maoists problems in Nepal have led to huge drops in visitors numbers to the park.  This has helped the wildlife, but poaching has increased, and several smaller resorts have closed. 

Outside the park

Sauraha

Careless development has undermined some of the safari atmosphere at Sauraha, but the setting is impressive - perched beside a wide, slow-flowing river with a wall of dense jungle looming on the far bank. 

There is a massive range of activities on offer here, probably more than at the big expensive lodges in the park.

Elephant Breeding Centre

About 3km west of Sauraha on the far side of the small Bhude Rapti River, this interesting breeding centre supplies most of the elephants for elephant safaris at Chitwan.

Pokhara is Nepal's second city and a recommended stop for travelers.  Phewa Tal, the beautiful lake, is surrounded by green hills with a striking Himalayan backdrop.  The lakeside area is the place to visit.  With a main street that is similar to the Thamel region of Kathmandu, but less hectic, with every service a traveler could want.  But it is easy to escape the commercial side, and with a short walk, bike ride or row into the lake you will find complete peace and quiet.

There is lots to do in Pokhara, with a lake, trekking on the Annapurna range, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking, Paragliding and more.  This is a good place to spend a long time.

Things to do

• Trekking - lots of choices including access to the Annapurna range.
• Rafting and kayaking - take a trip down one of the many rivers.
• Rent a boat on the Phewa Tal lake, visit the Varahi Mandir temple in the middle, row over to the World Peace Pagoda, or just float around on the water.
• Try paragliding at the best place in the subcontinent.
• Rent a mountain bike and explore the roads and villages around Pokhara, which are much quieter.
• Rent a motorbike and explore further afield.
• Enjoy the amazing Annapurna range views from Sarangkot .
• Walks
  • Walk to the beautiful hilltop World Peace Pagoda, with its magnificent views.
  • Walk north through the town and along the lakeside for stunning views.
  • Walk right around the lake, you'll need to start early in the day though.
• Visit the excellent International  Mountain Museum, further out of town.
• Devil's Fall - where the stream disappears underground with great force and noisy.
• Visit the Tibetan settlementsoutside of town.

Transport

Getting to and from Pokhara

There are regular buses to the following destinations:

• Kathmandu - there are a few things to do between Pokhara and Kathmandu .
• Royal Chitwan National Park
• Indian border - Sunauli is the closest border town, but others include Mahendrangar, Nepalganj, Birganj and Kakarbhita.
• Various trekking routes

There are regular flights to:

• Kathmandu
• Jomsom
• Manang

Getting around Pokhara

The lakeside area is small and you only need your feet.  Get a taxi to Sarangkot, and other further a field places.  Bicycles cost NRS100 per day.  You can rent motorcycles for NRS350 per day, look around though.

Facilities in Pokhara

There are lots of travel agents in the central area of the lakeside town.  Most are reputable.  Wayfarers are reliable.

There are loads of Internet places with moderate speed, but cheap.  USB access, CD burning and printing are available.  WiFi is available at the MoonDance restaurant, but it's the same price as an Internet cafe.  There are only a couple of mobile phone networks, but coverage is ok.  Local and international phone calls are available at most Internet places, but they're not so cheap.

Accommodation in Pokhara

If, after the bustle of Kathmandu, you want a peaceful hotel head to the east or northern lakeside area. Hotels here are amongst small farms and many have great views of the Himalayas. 

East Lakeside

East lakeside is set amongst small farms and residences, but no lake views.

Orient Youth Hostel
t: 522619
e: hotelorient@hotmail.com
NRS300 - NRS450.
A lovely quiet, family run hotel with clean neat rooms. More expensive rooms upstairs have great views of the Himalayas. Very quiet area, overlooking small farms.

North Lakeside

Quieter than the central area, the quiet road passes by, but the lake views are stunning.

Banana Garden Lodge
t: 542401
NRS150
A bright budget guesthouse right on the very edge of town.  The views from the balcony are amazing.  The friendly owners keep a lovely garden and provide good Nepali meals.

Namaste Lodge
NRS100 without bathroom
Next door to Banana Garden Lodge, with simple rooms.  Upstairs rooms are the best.

Most people catch the bus between Kathmandu and Pokhara without stopping, which is a shame as there a number of great places to stop and stay.  The steep hills around the Prithvi Highway contain some of the most important religious sites in Nepal, giving yourself a couple of days to explore them can give your trip a unique edge.

Bandipur

Bandipur is a beautiful town and a living museum of Newari life and culture.  People here live centuries apart from the rest of the country.  70% of the buildings are traditional Newari houses.  This is a great place to spend a night or two to experience real Newari culture and living. The area is sympathetic to the Maoist and there is no real trouble here. There are a number of cheap places to stay. Buses stop at Dumre, which is nothing special, and jeeps take people to Bandipur. 

Manakamana Mandir

The Manakamana Mandir is one of the most important temples in Nepal.  From the hamlet of Cheres an Austrian engineered cable car sweeps up the steep hillside to the temple.  All buses between Kathmandu and Pokhara pass the turn-off to the cable car.

Gorkha

Gorkha was the birthplace Prithvi Narayan Shah, conqueror of the Kathmandu Valley and founder of modern Nepal.  It is now a major pilgrimage destination, particularly for Newars, who include the Shah kings (including the current one) as living incarnations of Vishnu.  The main attraction is Gorkha Durbar, the former palace of the Shahs.  Note:  the town is a target of Maoist attacks, so check the situation well.  There a many daily buses to Pokhara and Kathmandu.

Nepal is probably the world's greatest outdoors destination.  The towering Himalaya mountains offer world class trekking, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking, paragliding and more.  Almost all these activities cost less than half the price in Nepal as they do in the US or New Zealand.

Trekking in Nepal

Nepal is the worlds greatest trekking destination.  From a single stroll in Pokhara, 2 to 21 days in the Annapurna or the trek to Everest Base Camp, there is something for everyone.  The hills of Nepal are littered with lodges where you can stay, adding to a unique experience.  Guides, porters and equipment are available in all trekking regions.

Short treks and day Hikes

If multi-day trekking isn't your thing then consider some of the short or single day treks.  The areas around Pokhara and Kathmandu are the best places for shorter treks.

Top 10 places for day hikes

1. Chitwan Hills
2. Bandipur
3. Tamang Heritage Trail, Langtang Region
4. Kathmandu Valley
5. Around Tansen
6. Tansen to Ranighat
7. Nagorkot
8. Shivapuri National Park
9. Pokhara's World Peace Pagoda
10. Around Pokhara (Rupa Tal, Begnas Tal and Sarangkot)

Mountain Biking in Nepal

Nepal has a incredible diverse terrain perfectly suited to mountain biking.  Nepal is gaining more and more recognition for its mountain biking and national and international events on the rise.  The Kathmandu valley area is probably the best place. Mountain bikes in Nepal are generally cheap bikes made in India, and not suitable for serious off road riding.  Proper bikes are available locally for NRs700 per day, or you might want to consider bringing your own bike.

Rafting and Kayaking in Nepal

Nepal is one of the best places in the world for rafting and kayaking, with outstanding river journeys for all experience levels. Warm water, a subtropical climate (without any bugs) and huge white sandy beaches that are ideal for camping add to the appeal.  September to December is the best time, after that the water and air gets cold. Beginners can try a 4 day kayak clinic course for US$180.  Rafting requires less initial instruction.  There are rivers all over Nepal with amazing views.  Pokhara is a good place to sign up. Bring cheap underwater cameras from home to take pictures when rafting or kayaking.

Bungee Jumping in Nepal

The 'ultimate bungee' straddles a mighty 160m drop into the gorge of the Bhote Kosi at The Last Resort, 12km from the Tibetan border.  It's one of the worlds longest bungee jumps, even higher than any in New Zealand.  It costs US$80 from Kathmandu including all transport and lunch.

Canyoning

Canyoning is a combination of abseiling, climbing, sliding and swimming that has been pioneered in the canyons and waterfalls near The Last Resort and Borderlands.  Both companies run two-day canyoning trips for about US$100.

Paragliding

Pokhara is the place to head for as Sarangkot offers perhaps the best paragliding in the Indian subcontinent.  With a Himalayan backdrop where could be better?  Flights are a single tandem experience, or a multi-day solo affair.  November to January are the best times to paraglide.

Rock Climbing

Kathmandu has rock climbing schools, others are also on the road from Kathmandu to Pokhara and also in Manang.

Nagarkot is a small resort village on the Kathmandu Valley fringe, and the best place to see Mount Everest without taking a trek.  It's a great place for mountain views, especially at sunrise.  There are several good walks around the area.  There is a cheap minibus to the resort from Thamel.

Between October and March you are pretty much guaranteed good mountain views .  During June to September you'll be lucky to get a glimpse through the monsoon clouds.  It is much cooler in Nagarkot than Kathmandu, and in autumn and winter you'll need to wrap up well.  The resort is a bit fragmented due to a proposed army camp that never developed.

You can get there one day, see the views and leave the next morning.  To take in a walk spend another night or two.

Sights in Nagarkot

The only thing to see are the amazing views.  Mount Everest is a dot on the horizon, but the other peaks of Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Ganesh Himal, Langtang Lirung, Shisha Pangma, Dorje Lakpa and Gauri Shankar are more impressive.  There is a lookout tower reachable in an hours uphill walk that offers 360 degree views.

Activities in Nagarkot

Hiking is the only activity.  A range of walks from 1 hour to 2 days are possible.  The Lonely Planet Nepal has good descriptions and instructions of the walks.

Accommodation in Nagarkot

Nagarkot has a selection of guest houses and hotels, but quality is a little low, but most have great views. Most have a restaurant.

Getting to Nagarkot

In high-season there is a daily tourist minibus from Lekhhnath Marg (north of Thamel) at 13:30.  It returns from Nagarkot at 10:00 from the Galaxy View Tower.  It takes 2 hours and costs NRs325 one way.  Tickets, including returns, can be bought at Wayfarers.  Large packs can go on the roof.

It's possible to get a taxi from Kathmandu, but it'll cost NRs1400 one way.  You can also walk.

I love backpacking, I also love to travel with my own vehicle, and am always looking for new and different ways to travel.

I have always wanted to take part in an organized overland trip, since I first saw an advert for Oasis Overland in a edition of the Big Issue. I did an overland trip in New Zealand many years ago and loved visiting all of the out-of-the-way, and little know places. The though of visiting a developing country on such a trip really appealed to me, and crossing from Kathmandu to Delhi seemed like a great route on which to try another organized overland trip. After some research I decide to go with Dragoman Overland, a UK based company. I actually booked and paid for the trip whilst in Nepal. Here is my summary of the trip, although you can read more in my blog from the time.

Trip details

• Route: Kathmandu to Delhi
• Duration: 14 days
• Cost: US$722 / GBP£361 - plus a local kitty of US$320. The kitty is for costs such as hotel rooms and food, but the group decides how and when to spend the kitty.
• Overland Company: Dragoman Overland
• Trip Leaders: Zoe and Hugo
• Truck: Archie - A TaTa truck with windows down all sides, comfortable forward facing seats, 2 sit-around tables, a fridge, camping equipment and drinking water on board.

Pre departure day - Kathmandu, Nepal

We meet at the Hotel Garuda in Thamel, Kathmandu. The trip leaders introduce themselves, aquaint us with what will happen and take care of the paperwork. Many people have only been in Nepal for a few days, and are keen to see the city. I have had my Kathmandu experience and leave them to it. We all check into the same hotel though, and all meet for dinner that night, which is a good introduction. The people are a good mixture, 6 women and 2 guys. 3 of us are Brits, 2 are from the USA, 1 from Mexico and 2 from Australia. The trip leaders are Zoe from the UK and Hugo from Portugal. They have recently flown in from Africa, and have not led this journey before. They are both clearly experienced travelers and leaders, and nobody seems to have any concerns. The suggested kitty price has risen from US$270 to US$320. This is because of India's fast growing economy and costs.

Day 1 - Driving from Kathmandu to Chitwan National Park, and the Elephant Breeding Center, Nepal

We leave the hotel at 6am, head across Kathmandu in a mini-van and get introduced to the truck that will take us on our journey. We hit the road quickly to try and beat the traffic, which we do. We head west on the major, but rough, road. The views are stunning, and everybody is impressed.  It's a long drive today of about 6 hours.  In fact most days when we are on the truck will involve long hours of driving, up to 14 hours in a single day.  People try to sleep.

The twisty valley road flattens out as we head south, and we pass through a few towns, passing a vibrant wedding.  We turn away from a hectic town and are instantly amongst beautiful surroundings, we are nearing Chitwan National Park, one of Nepal's prized treasures.

After a little more driving we reach our destination, Rhino Lodge Hotel.  A lovely, peaceful resort that will be our home for the next few days.  We unload our things from the truck and settle into our rooms.  We imeditately have lunch - a nice traditional Nepali meal.

Our trip leaders, Zoe and Hugo, now have to return to Kathmandu.  They are awaiting their visas for India, and now have to return to collect them.  We are left in the very capable hands of the resort staff.

We then jump into a jeep and head to the Elephant Breeding Program center.  Here Elephants from the national park are reared, cared for and training to work in and around the park.  The center is a great place, and very natural compared to something one would find in the west.  We feed the baby elephants and watch the interaction between the animals.

We jump back in the jeep and head back towards the lodge.  A few of us jump out halfway back to enjoy the walk.  Our local guide also joins us and the walk is a great way to see the local people living around the park.

We relax around the resort for a little while before all joining together for dinner.  Everyone is early to bed as we have another early start in the morning.

Day 2 - Safari at Chitwan National Park, Nepal

It's a 7am start for breakfast, before heading off on safari.  Our friendly and helpful guide meets us and we walk over to the river.  We climb aboard the canoe and drift down the scenic river.  The guide points out the wildlife and informs us about the workings of the national park, including the rights and interaction of the local people.  Today is not perfect for spotting crocodiles, but we do manage to see one. 

We leave the canoe and get briefed about what to do if we see any Rhinos.  We start walking back towards the resort, through the beautiful jungle.  We don't see any large animals, just a few monkeys.  Back at the lodge we have lunch.

After lunch is what everyone has been waiting for - safari on elephant back. we meet out elephants and we climb aboard. Our elephant takes us through some stunning areas of the national park - along tracks, through undergrowth, and across streams.  We see a female Rhino with a calf and later a male.  As we are on Elephant the animals are unworried by us and we get to see the animals up close.  Everyone has loved the visit to Chitwan National Park.

Day 3 - Onto Sunauli in India

We leave Chitwan and drive through the south of Nepal, after a stop for lunch.  At Sunauli we go through immigration to leave Nepal and then to enter India.  The whole process takes about 2 hours, which is good considering we have a British registered vehicle, and 9 people from 5 different countries.  We stop the night in Sunauli, which on first inspection doesn't offer much at all.  However, after finding a traditional Indian eatery we enjoy a good meal which costs just INR25.  Back at the hotel the staff are able to get us some refreshments including beer.

Day 4 - The long drive to Varanasi, India

We get going early.  Everyone is intrigued by the misty India we see out of the windows. We drive along roads of varying quality.  After some heavy traffic in the towns we stop for an authentic roadside lunch of Somasas and other snacks.  Everyone is very impressed by the food. 

We get back on the road as we have many miles to cover. The constantly changing landscapes whizz past the windows, from farms, rivers, shops, traffic jams, food stalls and everything else's one would find in India.

Its dark when we approach Varanasi. Someone meets us at the city edge, jumps in the truck and directs us right to the hotel, which is much better than anyone was expecting. We dump our stuff and have dinner.

Day 5 - Varanasi, India

Another early start (as is necessary to see so much in a short period of time) and we take organised tuk tuks to the River Ganges.  Our very knowledgeable boat man rows us up and down the River Ganges.  It is a magical experience to watch the sun rise as the Hindu pilgrims bath and pray.  For many people this is the highlight to of their trip to India.  It is certainly one of mine.  One the way back to the hotel for breakfast we stop at several Hindu temples.

The tuk tuks are at our disposal for the whole day.  Many people visit a silk factory, but a disappointed by the hard sell tactics of some of the staff.  The Dragoman crew, who didn't go on the silk trip and disappointed to hear this and make notes. 

Later in the evening we are invited to watch a traditional Indian dance. It's a great experience and quite unexpected.

Day 6 - Varanasi to Panna National Park

A 5am start, and we weave our way through the early morning Varanasi traffic and onto the first highway.

As we pass into Madha Pradesh the landscape changes. Everything becomes much greener and less dusty, which is a welcome change. We pass fields of sizeable crops, rather than bare ones. The roads get bumpy in places but we make good ground.

We stop for lunch at a roadside place, popular with truck drivers. The setting is a little off putting and we have a little communication troubles, but we end up sitting in the sunshine and enjoying a fabulous Indian meal. In particular the rice pudding desert, which was probably the best I have ever tasted.

We arrive at the Ken River Lodge, near Panna National Park.  Today we have covered 410km, in 14 hours, on varying road conditions.  We all settle for drinks and chicken Tandori. The group discusses what to do with the extra day we have gained by todays long drive. We agree to spend the extra night here in the lodges. This gives us a much needed late start tomorrow.

Day 7 - Temples of Khajuraho

After a late start and breakfast we drive to Khajuraho. After a cafe pit stop our guide takes us to the wonderful temples.  We spend a couple of hours walking around and learning about this erotic and interesting temples. 

After another cafe pit stop we separate into pairs as we all have to cook for the group over the next few days when we are camping.   In our pairs we descend on to the markets and shops.  It is a very interesting experience with some of the group becoming well known with the locals, especially the shopaholics.

We return to the lodge and celebrate on the groups birthday, with chocolate cake from the cafe in town.

Day 8 - Jeep safari in Panna National Park

A 05:30 start this morning and into jeeps to Panna National Park.  We spend a few hours driving around the park spotting various animals, but sadly no wild cats.  Near the end we come across an Elephant and everyone has their picture taken with the beautiful animal.  Everyone seems to have developed a distinct love on Elephants after Chitwan National Park in Nepal.

After breakfast we have day to ourselves. 

Day 9 - Bush camping at the palaces in Orchha

A 6 hour drive to Orchha passes quickly today, with everyone already accustomed to longer driving days.

We arrive in Orchha at around 4pm. Our camping spot has incredible views of the palaces.  We unload all of the camping gear and setup. Some people seem less excited about the camping, which is a shame. Camping is part of the trip, and this is a truly amazing spot.

Tonights cooking team cook, whilst others go to the town. A local restaurant owner brings us beer and other drinks and reasonable rates.  Our camp has many inquisitive visitors - mainly children with many questions. The children are full of energy and their English surprisingly good.

Day 10 - Palaces and temples of Orchha

06:15 start to pack away the tents and to eat a hearty breakfast. It seems some local men, dressed in green uniforms, with large alsation dogs have spent the night under a tree guarding our camp. They light a small fire in the morning and leave when the sun has risen. I guess they are employed by the authorities to protect tourists in the camping area. Tourists are often paid this sort of consideration in India, it's warming to see.

Our guide collects us and and we take a tuk tuk to the palaces of Orchha. These incredible buildings were built by various kings within a relativily short period. Long since abandoned, the palaces are now protected. We spend 2 hours wandering around the two main palaces, before taking a wander through the streets towards the Rama temple.

Outside we buy some traditional Indian breakfast snacks, which are very spicy. Returning to the truck we get going.

A couple of hours outside of Orchha we pull over the truck for lunch. Within a few minutes the local goat farmers come over and stand behind us. They watch in fascination as we quickly setup the tables, food and cleaning gear.  A journalist we spoke with at Orchha stops and takes photos of the group eating lunch.  He thanks us and says 'Indian people can learn many things from you', presumable referring to our picnic stop.

We drive towards Agra.  On the edge of the city we pick up our helper who guides us to the hotel.

Day 11 - Taj Mahal, Indian home cooking and a packed day of the sights of Agra

Most of the group go the Taj Mahal to see the sunrise, some, wanting a later start go after.  We have tuk tuks at our disposal again, and can use them to go anywhere we like, at any time.

We have breakfast at Ali's house. Ali is the guy helping us with all of your transport here in Agra. He has a nice sized home is a busy neighborhood. His wife has cooked us a traditional Indian breakfast, which is served on the rooftop. The food is fantastic. We are served a selection of chai, coffee, sweet fried items, paneer naan, breads, mild spicy potato curry, fruit and endless toast. Everyone is amazed by the food. Ali had also offered us dinner at this house, and we were a bit unsure, but after breakfast everyone was more than keen to eat such good home cooked Indian food again.

The group also visit the Red Fort.  A few of us visit the main market, which is a fascinating experience.  Completely free of tourists we are a surprise sight for many of the traders.  The market is big and frantic.  My roommate Robs gets a shave.

In the later afternoon a few of us head to the Baby Taj Mahal, and further along the river to see the Taj Mahal reflected on the river surface.

Day 12 - Keoladeo Ghana National Park and Jaipur

After a short drive in the morning we stop at the Keoladeo Ghana National Park were some people take rickshaws and others ride bikes around the park.  It's a beautiful setting.

Back on the road we arrive at Jaipur and stay at a the best hotel yet.

Day 13 - Jaipur

In the morning our very knowledgeable and pleasant guide Eugene meets us and explains many things not only about Jaipur, but also of India.

We all jump in the truck and head into the city with Eugene, our guide. We stop at the Jantar Mantar observatory. It is an incredible collection of astrological devices for telling the time of day, time of year and the alignment of the starts. The center was built in the early 18th century by the very clever Maharaja Jai Singh II. It is a very impressive stop.

We walk over to the City Palace, an amazing collection of buildings, and the home of the Maharaja. The flying flags suggest his highness is in residence. We take in the various public parts of the complex. The buildings and their contents are impressive, but we overdo the tour a little and are all very eager for lunch at the end.

We have the rest of the day to ourselves and in the evening enjoy a dinner at a great Italian restaurant.

Day 14 - Delhi

The Dragoman trip ends in Delhi, with several sightseeing stops in the morning just outside of Jaipur.  I however am continuing my travels south into India and do not make the journey to Delhi.  So I can't tell you what happened.  Perhaps someone else on the trip can fill in this last entry :)

Summary

The Dragoman trip has been excellent.  Better than I expected and of excellent value.  I think everyone on the trip would agree with me.  I highly recommend this type of travel for anyone who wants to explore India and similar countries, and perhaps doesn't want the hassles of traveling in such a country.

Costs

A brief not on the costs of the trip.  I was initially hesitant to join the trip because it would cost me more than doing the trip backpacking by myself.  On reflection, considering the number of out-of-the-way places we visited I think the cost of the trip is excellent value.  The total cost was £361 and a kitty of US$320.  A total of about US$1,000.  Doing the trip outside of the Dragoman tour would perhaps save US$200 - $US300, but a good deal of time was also saved, not having to wait for connecting transport.  Also the Dragoman truck offers door-to-door transport and none of the hassles involved with traveling in India.

Mount Everest, part of the Himalaya range in Nepal, is the world's highest mountain at 29,035ft or 8850m.  Nepal has 10 of the worlds highest 14 peaks.

The Himalaya range formed 60 million years ago when the Indo-Australian tectonic plate collided with the Eurasian continent.  As the former was pushed under Eurasia, the Earth's crust buckled and folded and the Himalayas were born.

Seeing Mount Everest

As a tourist the best place to see Mount Everest is from the small town of Nagarkot , 32km from Kathmandu.  This town has amazing views of the Himalaya range, but Mount Everest is barely more than a dot on the Horizon.

To see Mount Everest more closely you need to trek to Everest Base Camp, but there is no actual view at the base camp, so stopping before the actual camp is the best view. In fact the Everest Base Camp Trek is surprisingly light on views as the trek goes across valleys rather than down them.  The base camp is at 5545m and takes 10 days to reach from Jiri, or 7 days if you fly to Lukla first.  And of course you need to walk or fly back again.

Climbing Mount Everest

Climbing Mount Everest has been the draw of many people over the years.  It is not trekking, it is mountaineering and requires considerable training.

During the 1920s and 1930s, reaching the top of Mt Everest came to dominate the Western imagination.  Political constraints added to the already difficult physical problems of an ascent. Nepal was total isolated, so attempts had to be made from the Tibetan side.

British assaults were made during the 1920s, with the 1924 expedition fell just 300m short of the top.  This expedition used at least 350 porters.  Such levels of support staff continued until recent years.

In 1999 the body of British climber George Mallory, frozen near the summit, was a new chapter in one of the enduring mysteries of mountaineering history.  In 1924, Mallory, and his climbing partner, Andrew Irvine, disappeared within sight of the top.  No one knows if they reached the summit.

In 1951 New Zealander Edmund Hillary took part in an exploratory expedition to Everest.  In 1952 Sherpa climber Norgay Tenzing reached 7500m.  The conquest of Everest finally took place in 1953 when the British team led by John Hunt put those two climbers, Tenzing and Hillary, atop the world's highest peak.

Mount Everest facts

Informative facts include:

• The Sanskrit word Himalaya means adobe (alaya) of the snows (himal).
• Mount Everest's real name is its Tibetan name, Chomolangma, which translates as 'Goddess Mother of the Universe'.  The Nepali name is Sagmartha, which is Sanskrit for 'Brow of the Ocean'.

Impressive facts include:

• The first ascent without oxygen was in 1978
• The first summit with an artificial leg was is 1998
• The first ski descent was in 2000
• The first blind ascent was in 2001
• The youngest person to climb Everest was 16
• The oldest person was 64
• The fastest ascent took 8 hours
• Sherpa Babu Chiru spent an amazing 21 hours on the top of Everest without oxygen in 1999

Silly facts include:

• Maurice Wilson planned to crash his Gipsy Moth plane halfway up the mountain and then climb to the top, with no experience of mountaineering or flying.  He eventually froze to death at Camp III dressed in a light sweater.
• A team of Brits trekked all the way to Everest Base Camp to play the "world's highest game of rugby" at 5140m, which they lost.
• A pair of Brits carried an ironing board up Everest to 5440m to do some extreme ironing.

There are no trains in Nepal, so transport between Kathmandu and Pokhara is either by bus or by flying.  There are a number of great places between Kathmandu and Pokhara , which you should consider if you have time.

Buses between Kathmandu and Pokhara

The Prithvi Highway is the only road between Kathmandu and Pokhara.  It is mainly rough tarmac and dirt in places.  Because of this the bus journey takes 6 - 8 hours.  The road winds down through the valley, and the views are great.  There are various army checkpoints along the way, which can cause a small delay.  Buses are also likely to be stop by Maoists and the driver will make a small donation.

Basic local buses are the slowest and cheapest option and cost NRS350.  Watch your luggage on these buses.  There are also quicker mini-buses for a similar price.  Ask at travel agents.

Slightly quicker, and more luxurious, and the tourist buses.  The best are GreenLine (NRS900) and Golden Travel (NRS800).  Both of these include breakfast or lunch, a bottle or water and a newspaper.  Luggage is stored in the bus, rather than on the roof.  GreenLine is the easiest option at Pokhara as they stop at the lakeside area, rather than at the mustang bus stop, which saves a NRS100 taxi ride. Buses leave Kathmandu at the Kantipath bus stand, an easy walk from Thamel. 

Flying between Kathmandu and Pokhara

Royal Nepal Airlines Corporation (t: 521021) and other private airlines fly between Kathmandu and Pokhara ($75, 20 minutes).  For great Himalayan views sit on the right-hand side of the plan heading to Pokhara, and the left-hand side of the plane heading towards Kathmandu.

Private car between Kathmandu and Pokhara

If you're feeling flush you can rent a private car and driver between Pokhara and Kathmandu. Ask at travel agents or hotels.