India

• Jaisalmer Fort
• Pushkar - a mystical small town around a holy lake
• Meherangarh - a fort with stunning blue-city views
• Udaipur - lake town with surrounding countryside
• Jaipur - pink city with palace and observatory

• Amritsar - the Golden Temple is Sikism's most holy site
• Attari - see the Pakistan-India closing the border display
• Chandigarh - India's greenest and cleanest city

• Shimla - the faded town only the Raj's favorite hill
  station
• Spiti Valley - stunning mountain scenerary Buddisht culture
• Manali-Lew Highway - some of the worlds highest motorable
  passes
• McLeod Ganj - Home to the Dali Lama and other Tibetan
  refugees
• Kinnaur Valley - lush orchards and wooded slopes

• Leh - a labyrinth of alleyways, gompas and palaces
• Lamayuru - Ladakh's most stunning gompas
• Zanskar - great trekking
• Alchi - some of India's finest Buddist artwork
• Tso Moiri - home to nomadic Khampa people
• Dal lake - a serene lake

• Agra - Taj Mahal and the Red Fort
• Varanasi - watch the bathing at the River Ganges
• Fatehpur Sikri - red sandstone palaces
• Sarnarth & Kushinagar - important Buddist sights
• Lucknow - a city of crumbling relics

• Trekking in the Himalaya
• Char Dham & Hem Kund pilgrames
• Corbett Tiger Reserve
• Rishikesh- yoga capital of the world
• Mussoorie & Nainital - hill stations
• Hardiwar - ashrams, temples and havelis

Jammu & Kashmir

Lamayuru Gompa

Visit the ancient Lamayuru Gompa set in the spectacular
Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir

Leh

Look out over the labyrinthe Leh nestled among the mountains
of Jammu & Kashmir

Punjab

Golden Temple,  Amritsar

Contemplate the grandeur of the Golden Temple.s

Delhi

Jama Masjid

Ascend the steps of the impressive Jama Masjid, India's
margest mosque

Rajasthan

City Palace

Gaze at the impressive City Palace across Lake Pichola,
Udaipur

Golden Fort

Take in the view from the golden fort across the sandstone
city of Jaisalmer

Meherangarh

View the stunning site of the seaof blue houses from
Jodhpur's awesome fort.

Uttar Pradesh

Taj Mahal

Marvel at the magical Taj Mahal at sunrise, Agra

Varanasi

Take a dawn boat ride down the Ganges, then after weave your
way through the colurful crowd on the Varanasi ghats.

Madhya Pradesh

Khajuraho

Visit the exquisit erotic temles of Khajuraho, perfectly
preserved in this tiny little town.

West Bengal

Ghoom's Gompas

Discover the colurful buildings and residents of Ghoom's
gompas near Darjeeling

Pareshnath Jain Temple

Seek out theff ornate Pareshnath Jain temple in Kolcata
(Calcutta)

Maharashtra

Mumbai (Bombay)

Experience India's most cosmipolitan city with its colonial
architecture, Elephanta Island and mingle with the evening crowd at
Chowpatty Beach

Tamil Nadu

Sri Meenaski Temple

Admire the intricate Dravidian carving of the Sri Meenakshi
Temple in Madurai.

Northern India

A dawn ride on a boat down the river Ganges, Varanasi, India

Outside the Hindu temple In Orchaa

Taj Mahal

Jaipur, the pink city

Mumbai (Bombay)

Chowpatty Beach, the city beach in Mumbai (Bombay)

Goa

Pigs at Palolem Beach, Goa

Traditional fishing technique in Goa

Catching the train from Goa to Kerala

Train passing Kerala Backwaters

Kerala

Kerala Backwaters

I love the song they chant whilst loading the sleepers.

Thousands of ducks swimming from a farm

Kids riding along a canal in the Kerala backwaters

Train arriving at Ernakulam station

Chinese cantilever fishing net in action. I saw them catch some big fish with these things.

Canoe

A canoe glides by on the Kerala backwaters

Fisherman punts canoe

India is a vast country with good train networks but roads of limited quality. Therefore covering large distances are best done by train. If the journey is more than 10 hours there are often overnight trains which save time and accommodation costs.

Overnight trains

Overnight trains have 4 classes of accommodation. 3AC are comfortable berths, and more than enough for most travelers. 3AC and 2AC offer a good chance to chat with Indian people and other travelers.

The Air Conditioning (AC) is very effective, and you might even get cold by the morning. 3AC, 2AC and 1AC all come with bedding (pillow, sheet and blanket). If you have a sleeping bag keep it handy.

Here is a breakdown of the 4 available classes

• Sleeper - the cheapest option, but crowded and the wooden slat benches are not comfortable. Very popular with Indians.
• 3AC - Aircon 3 seats/beds per section. Padded and comfortable, more than enough for most travelers. Popular with backpackers and Indian families. Tips: The beds running down the side (rather than across) of 3AC carriages are 2 high, rather than 3, making them effectively 2AC. The seats aren't as well padded though. If traveling alone ask for the top bunk, which doesn't fold away, as you can lie down during the day.
• 2AC - Aircon 2 seats/beds per section. Slightly more comfortable than 3AC. Good for couples as the upper bed does not fold away, so someone can lie down during the day. Popular with travelers and Indian business people.
• 1AC / First class - Aircon 1 seat / bed per section. Very comfortable, and quite a bit more expensive. Popular with Indias more affluent people and travelers with cash. It is often the same price to fly though.

Here are some handy facts about overnight trains

• AC carriages are quite cool and most people prefer wearing trousers than shorts, especially when sleeping.
• If your overnight bed doesn't have any bedding try and sort it out straight away, and be persistent if no one comes along with it as promised.
• Keep earplugs handy for overnight trains, there is often a lot of noise.
• Luggage is stored under your seat, and can be locked to a metal loop. Keep a padlock and chain handy.
• Don't worry about taking food and water onto overnight trains. Typical Indian food is available on board at typical prices. Omelettes for breakfast, curries at lunchtime samosas and cutlets throughout the day. There is a pantry car, but the sales people will regular walk the train. Water, chai and coffee are also available at normal prices.
• Each car has a toilet at the end. It is normally a squat toilet (sometime western), and normally clean. There is a wash basin outside the toilet.
• The side doors at the end of the cabins will be open during the day. Hanging onto the hand rail and leaning out is a great experience. Hold tight though!

Goa is a small state, but exploring it by bus takes a long time, and taxis can be expensive.  Renting a motorbike or moped is the best way to explore this beautiful region.  Motorbikes and mopeds can be rented in most places tourists are staying, and everyone seems to know someone who has one for rent.  The roads in Goa are responsably good, especially for India.

The road signs in Goa are generally better than in most places in India, and you're unlikely to need a map.  If you are not sure just ask a local, but never ask a leading question. Don't ask 'Is this the way to Anjuna?' as the response might be a yes even if the answer is no.  This often happens because this is the only English response people know, or they simply don't know the way and they don't want to disappoint.  Always ask 'Which way to Anjuna?', and asses your response.  Most Goan's speak good English and are more than happy to help.

Motorbikes cost around INR350 per day, maybe a little more for an Enfield. But scooters, or mopeds, are more than adequate and cost around INR250 per day.  You get get great discounts outside of the high season.  The roads vary in quality, but most vehicles cruise at 80kph on the NH17 main road, and the scooters can match this speed.  Of course the Enfield is the classic Indian motorbike experience, but you may have to get up early to secure one as there are fewer to rent.

When riding on the roads always give way to large trucks, because they will push you off the road otherwise.  Also don't assume that other vehicles will give way at roundabouts.  Basically keep your eyes peeled, ride safely and have fun.

Patnem beach, south of Palolem beach (just over the rocks) is a beautiful palm fringed bay with another continuation south over a little headland.  It's essentially a little Palolem, with fewer people, fewer beach huts and restaurants, fewer palms and fewer hawkers and gawkers.  It's a great alternative to Palolem if you are looking for somewhere a little more laid-back and cheaper.  It's definitely not a second-best to Palolem though, with good accommodation and restaurants.

Facilities at Patnem beach

The beach has a good selection of restaurants and stalls.  The beach road has travel agents who can change money (the nearest ATM is at Canacona), Internet access, motorbike and bicycle rental, convenience stores, kayak rental and small sailing catamarans can also be rented.

Surfing at Patnem beach

On most days in winter there is a tiny wave that could be surfed with a longboard or fat fish.  Occasionally the swell is a little bigger, and you're looking at 3ft on the face at best.  But, the water is warm and there is rarely another surfing in sight.  Only cheap boardboards can be rented, so you'll need to bring your own equipment.  The surf at Palolem is much the same.

Accommodation on Patnem beach

Patnem accommodation prices are cheaper that in Palolem.  Most accommodation at Patnem is beach huts on the beach (INR700 at Christmas).  There are some guesthouses on the beach road (INR500 at Christmas) and some just of the beach north towards Palolem. There are several houses and rooms with bathrooms and kitchens for rent, which can be good for larger groups and long stays, but all are a little away from the beach.

Beach huts

There a many little beach hut communities down the beach.  Just ask and look around.

Mountain Palms
t: 9823491734
Nice sturdy beach huts at the southern end of the beach.  The huts have solid wood walls, concrete floors, attached bathrooms, table and chairs, ceiling fans, power, mosquito nets, good mattresses and bedding.  A few are beach facing.  The restaurant serves great food, provides bike rental and arranges taxis and dolphin trips.  Run by Ramnath and his great team, always willing to do anything they can to help, without selling you anything.  INR1,000 at Christmas.

Home
t: 2643916
e: homeispatnem@yahoo.com
The best place to stay on Patnem Beach.  Home offers real rooms, rather than beach huts, with each room being spotlessly clean and of different sizes, all with private bathrooms and a good European style restaurant.  INR500 - INR 1,000.

Palolem beach is Goa's most idyllic beach.  A beautiful sweeping bay of white sand, fringed with palms with an island (Green Island) accessible at low tide.  Palolem's once pristine beach is now compromised by the endless restaurants and beach huts that are tucked in the palms.  But, all of the beach buildings are of bamboo construction; if only they didn't use blue plastic on the roofs!  There are lots of facilities on hand, no party scene, but with several restaurants playing music, some of it live.

Despite the continuing development on the beach, and on the road leading down to the beach, Palolem remains a popular and beautiful place to visit.  Popular with 20 and 30-something travellers and backpackers ,and a few others, there are no real resorts here like on some of Goa's other beaches. 

At Christmas time Palolem is packed and accommodation prices can triple.  Yet it remains a laid back and fun place.  There are quieter beaches within easy reach of Palolem; north is Agonda, south is Patnem .  Just over the rocks on the southern edge of Palolem is Colomb beach , and then a 10 minute walk onto Patnem beach.

Facilities in Palolem

There is no ATM in Palolem, the nearest is in Canacona, 3kms away.  So bring plenty with you, or just rent a mountain bike to Canacona when you run out.  Several travel agents do cash advances, but you'll pay for the privilege.  There are various travel agents on the beach and further back on the beach road.  Motorbikes, mopeds and mountain bikes can be rented at various places.  Internet access is readily available.

Activities at Palolem beach

• Endless massage options are available on the beach.
• Dolphin spotting and fishing trips are easily available by boat
• Motorbikes, mopeds and bicycles can be hired cheaply.
• Visit Butterfly Beach by boat.
• Contigao Wildlife Sanctuary is 9kms southeast of Palolem.
• There is a tiny wave, surfable with a high volume board, but you'll need to bring equipment, as only cheap bodyboards can be rented.  The wave at Palolem is much the same as Patnem.

Accommodation in Palolem

Don't believe your guide book prices - India's inflation is on overdrive, and Palolem's is even higher.  Prices here are for Christmas, you'll pay half outside of the holidays.  Palolem has the typical Goan selection of beach huts (INR700+) and cheaper guesthouses away from the beach (INR500+).  For something quieter there are beach huts at either end of the beach.  For top end accommodation there are a couple of hotels on the road behind the beach.  To save money or for better chances of staying at Christmas bring a tent and ask at some of the beach hut camps that have shared bathrooms.  You should only need to pay INR100 per tent. 
Note: some places double or triple these prices over the Christmas week!

Beach huts

To find a beach hut just walk around looking for signs and ask.  You should find something fairly quickly.  Check the prices over Christmas week though.

Ciaran's Camp
t: 2643477
e: johnciaran@hotmail.com
Just about the most luxurious place you can stay on Palolem beach.  Each year the owner, John Coutinhou, makes it better. The excellent huts have private bathrooms, one of the best restaurants and bars on the beach and a stylish boutique.  Rooms in the house have AC and TV.  INR1,000 - INR3,000.

Cozy Nook
t: 2643550
An excellent place in a great location at the far north end of the beach.  The owners create a friendly atmosphere and the huts - some with private bathrooms - are better than most.  INR500 - INR1,000.

Bhakti Kutir
t: 2643472
www.bhaktikutir.com
An eco friendly place set within a coconut grove between Palolem and Patnem beaches.  It is well designed and very peaceful.  The predominantly vegetarian restaurant is excellent.  They also provide yoga and meditation workshops.  Huts are INR750 - INR2,000.  Stone houses are INR3,000.

Dylans
Reasonable beach huts towards the southern end of the beach.  Has a popular restaurant. INR800 at Christmas.

Dourado Cocohuts
t: 9923149671
A reasonable set of beach huts with wood walls, rather than thatch.  A quiet spot set amongst palms with a few pigs running around.  The private bathrooms have been added on, but are fine.  The showers are cold water, but are often luke warm with the sun warming the water tank.  There is power, fans, mosquito nets and balconies with chairs and hammocks.  They have a laundry service and of course a beach front restaurant.  It's not very well advertised, look for a small sign on the beach, half way between the taxi stand and the most southerly point, near Deena cottages. Or, access from the main road, behind the Brown Bread shop.  Some music can be heard at night from the nearby restaurants, and people often walk through the camp as there is a path to the road.   Run by owner Tomas Durado.  The huts are generally overpriced.  INR1,000 around Christmas, INR3,000 over the Christmas week.

Colomb beach

Colomb is a small beach just over the rocks at the southerly end of Palolem beach.  Colomb has it's own little beach.  The water around the rocks has a fair bit of seaweed, but it is fine for swimming.  Quieter than Palolem, but it's just a 2 minute walk from the main action.  There are numerous camps of beach huts and restaurants.  Most have great views.  The Green Garden restaurant, in the middle offers great food, friendly Nepali waiters and a great atmosphere. 

Update : Apparently someone has bought Colomb beach and intends to build a 5 star resort after the 2007 season, turning Colomb into a resort location :(

Bridge & Tunnel Sea View Cottages
t: 9822177450
e: shoumirsh@rediffmail.com
Various beach huts with or without AC.  The huts have solid walls, tile roofs, private bathroom, ceiling fans, power and balconies with table and chairs.  Towels and mosquito nets are provided.  All have see views.  Has a restaurant and Internet access. The huts are overpriced.  Some huts have a rodent problem.  INR1,500 over the Christmas period, overpriced.

Kollam is a busy market town, and doesn't offer that much.  You are likely to find yourself before or after a backwaters experience.

Accommodation in Kollam

The cheapest places to stay in town are around the Sri Uma Maheshwara Temple, which mainly cater for pilgrims.

Leksmi Tourist Home
tel: 2741067
A cheap and central place.  Rooms are reasonably clean, have some furniture, bathrooms and ceiling fans.  Some rooms have balconies.  There is a bit of noise from the temple during the day.  Mosquito net recommended.  INR150.

Kochi is an area in Kerala, India, made up of several islands and mainland areas.  Fort Cochin is by far the nicest part and offers almost all of the attractions, as well as the best accommodation.  Kochi is a good place to try a backwater experience. The influence of the Portuguese, English and Dutch remains with narrow streets and beautiful churches.

Kochi consists of the following area, all of which are serviced by bridges or ferries.

• Fort Cochin - A island that offers almost all of Kochi's attractions. Linked by roads to the mainland, and service by regularly ferries.
• Ernakulam - The busy mainland area, nothing to see, but has the train and bus stations.
• Willingdon Island
• Bolgatty Island
• Gundu Island
• Mattancherry Island
• Vypeen Island

The Kerala backwaters are the highlight of the region, and for many their visit to India .  Nearly 1,000km of waterways spread from the coast to far inland.  The boats serving the area cross shallow lakes peppered with Chinese cantilever fishing nets, and travel along narrow shady canals where traditions of processing coconuts and cashew nuts still thrive.

The small villages that make up the backwaters are a treasure to visit.  You'll find churches, mosques, temples and schools.  Motorized transport hasn't replaced the traditional canoe yet, and is unlikely to given the amount of canals and the small number of roads.

The towns of Alleppey and Kollam are the major hubs for backwater trips, but Fort Cochin also offers lots of good trips.

There are three main ways to travel the backwaters:

Houseboat

The Houseboat is the ultimate way to experience the backwaters.  Traditional rice barges (kettuvallam) have been converted to homes that cater for couples or groups.  Trips are normally for 24 hours and all meals are included.  Costs are typically INR6,000 per couple, but much less outside of the high season (Nov - Jan).  Prices differ for bigger group houseboats.  Single travelers are better to find someone to share with, unless you have a big budget.  You can also have a day experience on a houseboat in Fort Cochin for INR550.

If you have the budget you can easily commission a houseboat for a longer period of time to go where ever you want.

The true houseboat experience is to be punted, where the drivers use long bamboo poles to power the houseboat.  This reduces the distance you'll cover in a day, but is very peaceful.  To cover more ground an engine is required, which is obviously not as tranquil.

Tourist Cruise

Tourist boats run everyday from Alleppey and Kollam and vice versa.  These ferry like boats stick to the major waterways, and although you wont see the really delicate Keralan life you will see a little glimpse of many things.  The trips leave at 10.30am and arrive at 6.30pm, everyday in high season.  It's the best way to get between Alleppey and Kollam if you have time.  There are also trips between Alappuzha-Kumarakom and Alappuzha-Kottayam.

Canoe

To see the really intricate and traditional parts of the backwaters you'll need to go on a canoe trip.  No other vessel can weave through the narrow canals that make up the traditional village life of the backwaters.  Trips vary, but prices are about INR300 per half day.  Trips can be arranged in Fort Cochin, Alleppey or Kollam.

Combinations

Many places combine backwater travel experiences to give you a taste of each.  In Fort Cochin the Tourist Desk Information Counter run a good day trip with a morning on a house boat, and an afternoon in canoes for INR550, including lunch, water and hotel pickup.

Fort Cochin is a quiet, pretty island offering fine architecture, some modern & traditional Kerala life and some good backwater experiences.  Fort Cochin offers a welcome escape from the hectic mainland of Ernakulam. There is a 500 year old church, cantilever Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish community with a 16th century synagogue, and a Portuguese palace. 

There is a small market area near the Vypeen Island jetty, where you can buy fruit and street-side snacks.  The ticket offer here also allows safe storage of luggage.

There are lots of Internet places in town, but all are packed by evening, so morning is the best time.

Activities in Fort Cochin

• Backwaters - Fort Cochin is a good place for a backwater experience, although you'll find better between Alleppey and Kollam.  The Tourist Desk Information Counter run a good day trip with a morning on a house boat, and an afternoon in canoes for INR550, including lunch, water and hotel pickup.
• Mattancherry Palace
• Pardesi Synagogue & The Jew Town
• Chinese fishing nets - See the traditional nets being used to catch fish.  There are thousands of these nets in the south of Kerala, but it's rare to see them being used there.
• St Francis Church - The oldest European built church in India.  Built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars.
• Santa Cruz Basilica - Impressive Catholic building with a striking pastel colored interior.
• Seafood dinner - buy your choice of seafood or fish from the fish mongers and have it cooked at a shack.  Much cheaper than inflated restaurant prices.
• Kathakali - see the traditional Keralan play. Very dramatic, with drumming, singing, headpieces and stunning makeup.

Accommodation in Fort Cochin

There are lots of home stays around.  Those in you guidebooks have probably jacked up their prices.  Try the Fort Nagar area, where there are loads of cheap home stays and guesthouses.

Fort Coch Inn
t: 9846345414
e: info@keralamytrip.com
Nice, good value and friendly home stay.  Rooms are clean, with tiled floors, white walls, mosquito nets on the windows, wardrobes and furniture.  The bathrooms have hot water showers all day long!  A little north of the Ham Dale Inn signpost on KB Jacob Road.  They also have an extensive travel agents. They have a single room with shared bathroom (INR200), double room with shared bathroom (INR300) and a en suite double (INR500). 

Eating in Fort Cochin

Unfortunately the restaurant situation is not good in Fort Cochin.  Prices are high and good quality hard to come by.  The flash fish restaurants charge typically INR400 for a fish dinner, and few are very good.  It's better to buy the fish of your choice from the fish mongers at the fishing nets at the north of the island, and take it to the nearby shacks which will cook it for you.  There are some other traditional Indian eateries around if you look, although some are a little overpriced.  Many restaurants serve beer in teapots, to avoid the licensing costs and hassles.  The street-side vendors at the Vypeen Island jetty offer good food at very low prices, especially good for breakfast.

Getting to and from Kochi and Fort Cochin

There are regular buses and trains to the major towns in Kerala, and other interstate destinations, including Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai. 

Many Indian domestic flights operate out of Kochi airport.  There are several daily flights to Singapore.  A taxi to the airport costs INR550. 

There are some boat services to Kochi from other places, such as Alleppey, but you'll need to ask around and double check.  Some advertised services seem fictional.

Getting around

Fort Cochin can easily be explored by foot.  The best way to get to Fort Cochin from Ernakulam is by ferry , which is very cheap (INR5).  Tuk-tuk and taxi rides are quite long and cost INR180.